Okay, I've gotten my nice pointy iron tip, and I've re-done the modchip. Plugged in the PS2 aaaaaaand... Nothing. The fan spins up, and the power light goes green, but nothing on screen and the drive won't eject. The modding seemed to go fine, I was able to get everything to where it was suppose to go, I checked the wiring with a multimeter and all seemed fine. About all that went wrong is I had bridging on the chip again (this time it was by accident, the soldering iron grabbed a bit of solder from a point I was soldering and I brushed against the legs when I was finishing), but I'm sure I got that all cleaned up. The wiring on the legs looks fine, they look perfectly straight to me. The solder point for the ground is touching the metal shield, but I assume this is OK, since this shield normally touches this point anyway.
Anyway, I'm not too sure where to go from here. I seem to recall having this issue last time, and bridging on "that" chip seemed to be the issue, as clearing up the bridges got the console booting again. At the same time, I also removed the modchip, so might the chip be a dud? Would disconnecting the wires running from "that" chip and disconnecting the modchip from it's power supple be essentually the same as removing it for testing purposes? Though, to be honest, I've kinda had it with PS2 modchipping, do you think I would be able to send the mainboard to one of you guys and have you do it for me? :D
Last edited by fireaza; 12-06-2012 at 07:28 AM.
Can you send me a HIGH RES pic of your work, please ? (if needed just pm me the address with the upload or we can exchange email addresses through PM)
Okey-dokey-lokie, lemmie just get some photos... They're a bit big to attach, so I'll send you a PM and get your email address.
Seems like 3rd time's the charm, I've successfully installed the modchip!! The PS2 not only boots up and opens and closes the tray and reads disks, but I've also got the Matrix logo too! Here's how the wiring looks in the end (I'm gonna hot glue the wires in place soon):
I think l_oliveira was right, there was something amiss with my wiring on the mechacon chip, because after re-doing the soldering on it (testing the console without the wiring first to be sure there were no bridges), everything looked cleaner. I also tried running the power wire to the alternative location, since the default location is a pain in the ass to solder to, especially since you need to use a thicker wire for power. Hey, maybe my problem the whole time was I should have been using the alternate location ;) Here's a few things I found that made soldering the wires to the legs of the mechacon chip easier:
- Strip back a fair length of the wire on the chip end, otherwise the sleeve will make the wires too thick and make it hard to neatly solder them side-by-side
- Use a pair of angled pointy tweezers, makes it much easier to hold the wire in place while you're trying to solder it
- A fine soldering iron tip seems to require a surprisingly high temperate to work. I take it that because the tip is so small, it's not able to transfer heat as efficiently and quickly as a thicker tip?
I've tested the chip with some legit, local region games, and they boot up fine. So I downloaded an NTSC game ISO to test the whole reason for doing the mod, but the disk won't load. Is the PS2 incompatible with DVD-RW disks? Also, does anyone have the user manual for the Modbo 4.0? I wanna access it's option menu (see if I can find a way of turning off the Matrix branding) but I'm not getting any extra options from the console's options menu.
Yep, I used a DVD-R and it worked fine, seems only the later version PS2s support DVD-RW.
*tosses out burnt copy of Katamari Damacy which was used for testing*
Okay! The PS2 is modded and can finally play import games! Now to get a hold of some legitimate import games and build my collection! Once again, thanks for all your assistance and advice guys! Y'all is awesome! :D
I've found the Modb 4.0 config menu, and there's a few things I found odd: both "PSX multi disk" and "DVD9 DL support" were set of "OFF" by default. Woulden't you want the console to be able to support multi disk PS1 games and dual-layer PS2 games? Why would these settings default to off?
*EDIT* Uh, the PS2 has suddenly stopped ejecting the disk tray. The blue light blinks, but the tray doesn't come out! What's going on here?
*EDIT* Disassembled the PS2 and reassembled it. Now the tray opens again!
*EDIT* And now it's back to not opening! WHAT'S GOING ON HERE?!
Last edited by fireaza; 12-08-2012 at 08:13 AM.
When you push the eject button the eject button blinks but the tray do not open ?
If so, check the motherboard flatcable (the one that goes from the SYSCON BOARD (the tiny board which is screwed to the casing) and the main board.
The SYSCON chip controls the power on/off fans and obviously it sends the mechacon the signal to open the tray. If the said flat is not attached properly the PS2 will not eject... lol Also there's a chance of other weird things like the swirling electrons (their motion is based on the real time clock and the real time clock is on the syscon board along with it's lithium battery....) going mental ... Also the power led blinking red and blue (EE temperature sensor not properly connected) since the temperature sensor is in main board but the SYSCON which reads it's state. Just to mention a few things that one could witness on a fault condition of the said flatcable...
Yes, when I press the eject button, the blue eject light blinks, but the tray doesn't open. When I pulled it apart just before, I re-inserted all the cables and made sure they were firmly in place. They must have been, since the console was able to eject the drive before it stopped doing it again. I've been reading up on this issue, and I'm thinking the BA chips might be the issue. As I remember, the little thermal pad that's suppose to sit on top them was getting caught up on the plastic that's under the SYSCON board, so it probably wasen't doing it's job. That would explain why it was working then suddenly stopped, the BS chips had cooled while I was pulling it apart again, but overheated again after it had been running for awhile, and so, stopped ejecting. I've pulled the PS2 apart again, and re-seated the thermal pads (kinda hard, since they're stuck to the HDD bay), and I'm pretty sure they're where they should be, but the tray still won't eject. It will close when it's turned on, if I take the tray out, move the eject mechanism to open, and re-insert the tray in the ejected position. Not sure if that's significant.
Sadly you're learning why people hate these old PS2 models so much. They're not smart enough to understand how they work...
So they put the blame on the machines. I see you have a good grasp of what's going on so at least you're not helpless.
I'd suggest you take out the mechanism of the other PS2, remove it's drive board and install on the PS2 you're currently working in.
If the board overheated it will have cracked joints and that will be the source of the current problem. I don't think you will be able to repair that after just learning how to solder properly. So for now just take the other board from the "dead" system.
That was going to be my next step actually :D I see on eBay that you can get replacement BA chips, apparently you can test if the chip has popped by putting one of the probes of your multimeter on a specific leg and putting the other on ground. If there's a connection, the chip has popped, or something like that.
*EDIT* After leaving the PS2 for an hour or so, and trying it again, the drives works fine again :\
Last edited by fireaza; 12-08-2012 at 10:55 AM.
Actually, you won't have a blown BA5810 unless it's destroyed by a shorted up optical pickup.
That test is for probing the chip output drivers if they are shorted. And if they do get short, you won't see the PS2 give any video as it will blow at least one of the fuses related to the drive. That in the end causes the mechacon to not reply "init ok" to the OSD. In the end you get the PS2 to power up, put up a black screen on the TV (it starts video but doesn't show anything) and the eject button blue led doesn't come up.
No, you don't have a blown BA5810 (yet). Keep trying hard and it might blow eventually. ;)
Hmmmmm, OK then.
Used the PS2 for a bit more, and again, the drive stopped opening after awhile. Seems to be heat-related, since it works fine initially, then not later, but I'm pretty sure the thermal pad is sitting properly on the BA chips, so what else could it be? Anyway, I'll try swapping over the drive board and see if that makes a difference!
*EDIT* Okay, I've swapped over the drive assembly (couldn't be bothered to swap over just the board :P) and so far everything looks good! The PS2 functions, the drive opens and closes. Gonna leave it running for awhile and see if it's still working. I have a feeling that it might have been luck of the draw with my previous board, because the thermal pad had stuck to the BA chips with the replacement drive assembly while it was stuck to the HDD bay with the previous. Obviously, the thermal pad makes better contact when the pad is stuck to the chips instead of the heatsink :P I also thought to give the surface of the pad, as well as the contact point on the HDD bay a good clean with isopropyl alcohol, just to make sure heat is really flowing away from the BA chips.
Speaking of this thermal pad, is it suppose to be different from the thermal pad the CPU uses? That one is soft and floppy, while this pad is hard and crumbly. It makes me suspect it's deteriorated due to age, but what would you replace it with?
*EDIT* AAARRRUGHH!! It's stopped opening! Just like last time! I'll try putting a layer of ArcticSilver between the thermal pad and the HDD bay, maybe the thermal pad's surface was roughed up when it detached from the HDD bay, so I'm thinking maybe a layer of ArcticSilver might smooth things out. That, or removing the thermal pad entirely and using only ArcticSilver. This would be tricky, since ArcticSilver is designed for use when the chip and heatsink are close together, and that wouldn't be the case here. Not sure how well it would work if it were applied really thickly.
*EDIT* Added some ArcticSilver between the pad and the HDD bay, no difference, the drive still stops opening after awhile. I'm suspicious of how dried out and brittle this thermal pad is, I'm not sure it's even helping!
Last edited by fireaza; 12-09-2012 at 04:19 AM.