CRT image issue - I'm really starting to lose my patience

[Prometheus]

Well shit, I guess that's another wasted CRT. There are nearly 300 options in the service menu, yet not one of them seems to have an effect on horizontal linearity. There is a vertical linearity option, but that doesn't seem to help fix my problem.

I guess I am being obsessive about the issue, but it's just so annoying that every CRT I've bought since I moved had this same issue. I can easily tolerate a few minor geometry problems, but this one is just so irritating. I was trying to play Donkey Kong Country earlier today and since the ground is wavy and not straight like Super Mario Bros, it looked more horrendous than usual. (The TV, not the game)

Thanks for the help everyone. I guess I'll have to hope I can someday find a decent professional monitor locally, and pray that it doesn't have this issue as well.

[lnx64]

Horizontal linearity may not be an option in the service menu, but instead an adjustable coil on the board of the TV. It's one of those things that can't always be done in software..

[HEX1GON]

CRTs are dangerous to work on, I'd try a few thrift stores and see if you can come across one... I find so many on the street :/

[Prometheus]

Horizontal linearity may not be an option in the service menu, but instead an adjustable coil on the board of the TV. It's one of those things that can't always be done in software..

Hmm, is this something an amateur can do? If it's as simple as flipping a switch or turning a knob, then no problem. If this requires tools, advanced knowledge of CRTS, or has a severe risk of electrocution, then I'll pass.

CRTs are dangerous to work on, I'd try a few thrift stores and see if you can come across one... I find so many on the street :/

I'm done wasting money on thrift store CRTs. Every TV I buy from a thrift store has something wrong with it. Since I moved (about 2-3 months ago) I've had 4 tvs with this "speed bump" issue, and 1 with broken inputs and terrible color quality. I'm sick of this crap.

Once I have some extra spending money, I'm considering making a WTB on here for a professional quality monitor (the ones with all the fancy inputs). I grew up with two 19" CRTs, so I don't need anything huge. Probably between 19" to 21" would be ideal. I don't imagine those would weigh very much (40-60 lbs sounds about right), so shipping shouldn't be much of a problem. Is that a bad idea?

[APE]

Hmm, is this something an amateur can do? If it's as simple as flipping a switch or turning a knob, then no problem. If this requires tools, advanced knowledge of CRTS, or has a severe risk of electrocution, then I'll pass.

Could? Sure. I'd strongly advise getting a rubber gimp suit or wearing chain mail from head to toe as well as having a cable ground you. I've never been shocked playing around inside TVs (yes I'm really fucking stupid and have plenty of burns from my soldering iron to prove it) but I've managed to avoid playing with the high voltage areas.

[lnx64]

Horizontal deflection circuits are usually high-voltage so you may want to stay away from it

[HEX1GON]

Could? Sure. I'd strongly advise getting a rubber gimp suit or wearing chain mail from head to toe as well as having a cable ground you. I've never been shocked playing around inside TVs (yes I'm really fucking stupid and have plenty of burns from my soldering iron to prove it) but I've managed to avoid playing with the high voltage areas.

I just picture your hands all red and full of blisters lol.

[Bad_Ad84]

The just leave scars. Got plenty over the years

[Oldgamingfart]

In general, if you're on the lookout for a second-hand TV go for a smaller screen, say 24" and under (standard 4:3 and not flat-screen). Normally a smaller screen TV won't have been used as the main living-room TV, so they are likely to have done a lot less hours. Inspect the remote control, if it's badly worn then it's usually a good sign the TV's got some mileage on it.

I hate to say it, but avoid anything that looks old. It'll be obvious - things like fake wood veneer, LED channel indicators, lack of A/V inputs etc, you get the idea.
Always demo the TV for yourself, maybe even take a portable DVD player with you and play something like a Test Card DVD through it. Check for colour reproduction (especially on white), grey-scale (is the picture actually B&W when displaying a B&W picture?), picture sharpness (especially on text), and of course geometry.

Watch out for horizontal retrace lines or 'flyback lines' on black areas of the picture, and a flaring/ smearing type effect on strong red areas - usually a sign the CRT is tired. Have a play about with the Brightness and Contrast levels.
Observe things like static text beside a moving background (a menu item for example). If the text appears to move in and out or change in size (as the picture fluctuates in brightness), this can point to a high-voltage problem (poor regulation).

As for professional video monitors, roughly the same applies but look out for screen burn, CRT scratches or signs of rough handling. More up-to-date models will have an option for Component Video alongside RGB, and maybe even an SDI input (or provision for one). The latter no use to you apart from letting you know the monitor is not something from the Stone Age. On-screen display (OSD) menu as standard.

[Prometheus]

Alright, so I'm currently trying to find a quality CRT, but in the meantime I need something to game on. (I have a 32" LCD HDTV, but I think we all know how horrible older consoles look on those.)

I still have one of my old 19" CRTs. It was made in 1988 and stopped working a few years ago. It got increasing difficult over time to turn on when pushing the power button (I would have to press the button on the TV as hard as I could and hold it until worked.) Now it just refuses to turn on.

How to I explain this without sounding barbaric... basically, if I smack the TV with the right amount of strength and in the right spot (sometimes on top, sometimes on the sides) it powers on and works perfectly fine until I turn it off. Once that happens, it goes back to being broken. Sometimes the power light flickers whenever I smack it, like it wants to turn on but just can't. Every time I do this, it becomes harder and harder to get it working.

What's likely wrong with it? I've opened it previously and cleaned out all the dust inside that accumulated over the years. Nothing looks abnormal to me, but again, I'm no expert when it comes to TVs. I know the problem is mostly likely due to age, but I'd like to get it working again. It honestly had great picture quality, and I'd like to spend my time off playing on a TV that doesn't give me a headache.

[lnx64]

Probably a cold solder joint.

[Oldgamingfart]

Yes, have a look for anything like this. Preferably under a strong light source using a magnifying glass. Unplug the TV from the wall when carrying out repairs, and discharge any large capacitors by shorting out (across the + and -) terminals of each capacitor with an insulated screwdriver (watch out for sparks!). Alternatively just leave it unplugged for a week.

You'll have to unplug some things so make a note of where they went beforehand. If you can flip the board over without having to unplug the Anode Cap (big red wire going to a suction cup) then do so, otherwise you have to discharge the CRT (there's a high-voltage stored in there). Never run the set with the back cover removed, and expect plenty of dust.

[Prometheus]

So assuming it is a cold solder joint, how would I go about fixing it? I don't have a soldering iron, or experience with soldering in general.

Never run the set with the back cover removed

Oops...

[Oldgamingfart]

Safety is paramount with these things, be careful. As for general soldering tips, just Google it - I'm sure there's a few instructional videos on YouTube as well. A cheap $5 soldering iron from the local hardware store will suffice.

It's simply a case of heating the bad solder joint up and re-flowing the solder, preferably with some new stuff to 'seal the deal' so-to-speak. Best to avoid using lead-free type solder in this type of application (a reel of 60/40 Lead Tin solder will do).

There's not much else to it apart from that really. Just try not to breathe in the fumes, and avoid overheating the joint as the component(s) will suffer as a result. Repeatedly heating the same joint over-and-over again will usually result in damage to the PCB traces, so always best to work slowly.