RGB mod for TVs.

[sonicdude10]

Well folks I got another busted TV I need to fix for my grandmother. It's a Toshiba model CZ36V51. The "huge mutha f@$^a CRT TV" I referred to in first post. I won't be RGB modding it but be fixing a problem. Lost the video input to it leaving a blank screen. Don't know anymore at this point but will be checking it out. I'll update as to my whereabouts as I dive into it. Don't tell me to forget it due to the dangerous voltages in it. I know about that and will be very careful since I know how they work. They want it fixed because it cost them $850 back in 1999 when they bought it. That's enough money to warrant repairing it.

[retro]

That's a strange outlook to have, really. It may have cost them that, but it's not worth that now. Plus, if it's an uneconomical repair, it's not worth repairing. Would you say "well, I paid $20,000 for my POS old rustbucket of a car back in the 70s, so it's worth repairing"? That car could cost another $20,000 to fix up.

The problem is that parts are scarce for CRTs now. As for not going into it, that was more a generic point than aimed at you - others were making comments that suggest they don't know what they're doing in the thread. The reason you shouldn't go into it is not just the high voltage, but you need to know how to repair a television, too! If you learn how a television works, then you would have a good idea of what's wrong with it. Ideally, you need the service manual, which may well be obtainable... but be prepared for it to cost a bit (try Analog Alley - looks like they have it).

What do you mean by no picture? Vertical collapse? No life whatsoever? Is there sound? Does the LED flash?

As for whether it's worth repairing, that television looks like the kind that you can pick up here for no more than £50 - often less. People don't want big, bulky CRTs any more. Looks like this set had a common regulator fault - that regulator will cost you about $15. Or it could be the LOPT, which would set you back about $25, if you can find one. Or something else, of course ;) You don't really want to be giving vague descriptions of the fault to someone on the Internet, though - learn how to fix a television so that you can diagnose and fix it yourself ;)

Going back to the original question, most older arcade monitors run at the same frequency as televisions - saying they don't is rubbish. However, they're open chassis and quite dangerous! You would be much better getting a broadcast monitor such as a Sony PVM. And they're dirt cheap on eBay now - a 14" and a 20" attracted no bids recently. Both had a start price of $50. There's a 20" for $80 Buy It Now in California and another for slightly more in Denver. Or an 8" currently at $10 in Atlanta. Or two 8" for $20 in Portland. And that's just a quick glance at the first of eight pages ;)

[sonicdude10]

I have the repair manual. The voltages are good. I have deduced it is a problem with the V SYNC transistors. I have a way of checking those so that's the next step. And I still have not been shocked by the flyback transformer when probing with power on. If a person knows how electricity works, they will almost never get shocked because they avoid touching the danger points. The biggest thing when working on something like this is to PAY SOME FRIGGIN ATTENTION!! You can know everything in the world about electronics but that won't help when your hand accidentally bumps a high capacity capacitor and stops your heart and breathing. Also known as ventricular fibrillation. So yeah, I don't know everything (who does) but I know enough to watch out. Besides, if no one ever took risks, how else would we learn things since the internet can't replace good old fashioned hands-on experience? Just watch out if the risk could be fatal.

[GaijinPunch]

133MHz's site does not have the page linked in video. HOWEVER, based on what was said in video, my studying of the repair manual, (which has the IC chips, ID numbers, and wiring diagram) and my understanding of it all, I'm confident to dive into this. TV was found by dumpster so if it fries, no loss. As for the getting shocked part, well I've had my fair share of jolts. Enough to the point that I'm extremely careful around anything with AC current. Same way with DC after I got a massive shock from a welder in the DC mode. 160 amps of 20 volt DC current is not fun. Only reason I didn't fry was because it went from my left hand to my left leg missing my heart. I know I got the full juice or close to it because of the humming it made when dragged down like it does when using full power. (Yes that welder is still around and I still use it with extreme caution.) Also been shocked many times by those capacitors from disposable cameras with the built in flash. In other words, I know what I'm doing around dangerous current from those mishaps. Never trust a known insulator. They don't always do their job. And I will unplug the TV for like a week before I go into it. The other one I'll do next has been in storage for years so no worry of current there.

Just stay the fuck away from me.

[Arcade Monitor]

The trick is, if you're in the America and using connections like SVIDEO or worse, is connecting those shitty connections to the monitor. It's not that hard to find a solution. W/ all that's going on in this thread, it sounds like the best advice. Sounds like you like to tinker, but you're putting a lot of time into stuff that probably doesn't deserve it. Sounds like most of the gear is old, and probably not stellar quality to begin with.

PVM is another route (and has S-Video & Composite built in), but I've got an Arcade monitor (open chasis, yes, but that's why God made boxes) and that shit gets me hard.

[retro]

PVM is another route (and has S-Video & Composite built in), but I've got an Arcade monitor (open chasis, yes, but that's why God made boxes) and that shit gets me hard.

LOL! Make a perspex case, iMac style, perhaps? ;) Ooh, or something funky, like the Divers Dreamcast!

[GaijinPunch]

I'm from Texas -- just use wood! Hey, you laugh, it works. Just looks fugly.

[Does_anyone]

Yeah, shocking yourself really sucks.
Done that twice in less than a week on a god damn LCD once.

Pretty sure both times it immobilised me onto the ground, not to mention taking what seemed like minutes to be able to even get up again.

[sonicdude10]

I'm from Texas -- just use wood! Hey, you laugh, it works. Just looks fugly.

I'm in Texas myself but don't use would. This is the 21st century! We use Plastic, glass, and rubber for our insulators and building bases now. Although a wood case TV set sounds cool. Hmmmm... Maybe I should pull out the jig saw and some plywood.