CIC Chip Desolder/Solder tutorial

[Hexawolf]

Hello,

I bought an Everdrive 64 v2 - with no CIC chip included. Yet I own some legit N64 Cardriges so I'll get a CIC (pal) from them.

Anyway, I'd like to know if there's a tutorial out there so I can do it correctly. If not, some advice would be welcome :)

[MottZilla]

This is not a good project to learn how to solder. Find someone that actually knows how to solder small electronics. If you do it wrong, you'll damage the CIC or the cartridge or both.

[Nintendo64]

Hi,

I was in the same situation as you. I was very worried that I would destroy the ED64 and therefore decided not to desolder / solder the CIC.

I opened a regular game cartridge and cut off the CIC (near the board so that the pins are as long as possible). Then I installed it on the ED64 (be sure to use the correct direction) with some regular tape (circle it to get double side tape and place it between the cic and the Board).

After that you will need some toilet paper^^

Place it between the metal plate of the cartridge and the cic so that it pushes the cic down and gives contact. (You can use some regular tape too).

I know that this is more like a quick and dirty way to get it to work, but after the plastic cover is installed, you won't notice any difference and did not need to solder anything. Worst case scenario is that you kill the CIC when trying to cut it out.

And since you did not solder anything, you can easily swap CICs, for example if you want to play banjo tooie.

[APE]

Taping it in, now I've heard everything.

There absolutely is no substitute for soldering and this is absolutely no place for a first try at soldering. Do yourself a favor and buy a few cheap kits to build first or cough up a few quid for Bad_Ad84 to do it for you.

[StoneAgeGamer]

If you have never soldered before why not just order one with CIC already installed? I think its like $15 extra at most places that sell them.

Learning to solder is great idea, but not on a $100 item. Just my opinion.

[scottzane]

Soldering simple components like resistors is very easy : just need a $5 iron and you're OK. But soldering SMD (surface mounted device) need some training. Avoid to be shaky. Plus you need some additionnal stuff : a magnifier, a regulated iron, some soldering flux are recommended. I already heard that people do without those helps, but why would you want to put $100 at risk just to save $15

EDIT : CIC soldering is not SMD, I was confusing with other modding. My bad.

[Hexawolf]

Soldering simple components like resistors is very easy : just need a $5 iron and you're OK. But soldering SMD (surface mounted device) need some training. Avoid to be shaky. Plus you need some additionnal stuff : a magnifier, a regulated iron, some soldering flux are recommended. I already heard that people do without those helps, but why would you want to put $100 at risk just to save $15

Well, if I could, I would have bought a model that includes the CIC, even for $15 more. But only NTSC CICs were available, and I have a PAL console. That's it. I'll wait for until I receive the ED, and if I see it's too hard/risky, I'll get a skilled friend to do it.

[scottzane]

A short video if you want to have an idea about SMD soldering
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/tt03.html

EDIT : CIC soldering is not SMD, I was confusing with other modding. My bad.

[H360]

Place a socket in it so you can remove it and watch LOTS of YouTube videos on how to solder and soldering techniques.

Otherwise, as APE said, send it to Bad_AD84 or me.
Pick who ever is closer to you.

Bad_AD84...: United Kingdom
Haunted360: Australia

[sonicdude10]

Place a socket in it so you can remove it and watch LOTS of YouTube videos on how to solder and soldering techniques.

I wanted to do this too but others said that it would be too thick to fit in casing with socket. And BTW scottzane, the CIC is not a SMD. It goes through holes on PCB which makes soldering a whole lot easier. HOWEVER, I just did some checking and there is enough space for a socket for the CIC chip. Granted the spacing with a socketed CIC will most likely put right against the metal shielding but a little padding there should make it be alright if it touches. (Use toilet paper like Nintendo64 did or something else good.) If someone were to be constantly swapping the chips out and didn't care about the case looking like Swiss cheese, they could carefully cut a hole in the casing and shielding to allow access to the CIC without removing the casing. Just my $0.02 on this.

[saturnu]

I wanted to do this too but others said that it would be too thick to fit in casing with socket. And BTW scottzane, the CIC is not a SMD. It goes through holes on PCB which makes soldering a whole lot easier. HOWEVER, I just did some checking and there is enough space for a socket for the CIC chip. Granted the spacing with a socketed CIC will most likely put right against the metal shielding but a little padding there should make it be alright if it touches. (Use toilet paper like Nintendo64 did or something else good.) If someone were to be constantly swapping the chips out and didn't care about the case looking like Swiss cheese, they could carefully cut a hole in the casing and shielding to allow access to the CIC without removing the casing. Just my $0.02 on this.

isn't there a jumper near to the MAXII to be closed if you want to install a cic6105, so a switch maybe is needed, too.

[sonicdude10]

isn't there a jumper near to the MAXII to be closed if you want to install a cic6105, so a switch maybe is needed, too.

I presume you mean these points? If so, there is enough space for some small wires like say IDE ribbon cable to run to a small standard SPST switch.



Ignore my head. Just took a quick nasty picture to help those confused by the location of the traces in question assuming I got the right ones pointed out. This is a second revision model and is different front the first models so it won't work for the first models. They may have this trace elsewhere since the physical layout is different. Not sure since I don't have a first edition model.

EDIT:

So I did a little research on the N64 CIC and came up with a plan for dual CIC capability with a switch between 2 CIC chips for booting with. First things first, the CIC pinout:




Again, ignore my face as the CIC chip and numbers on image are the focus here. Here's the pinout for the way it's numbered. When you see a blank space by number, that means it's not connected:

CIC PINOUT

VCC	1	16	VCC
	2	15	DATA_OUT
	3	14	DATA_IN
	4	13	GND
	5	12
GND	6	11	CLK(~1.5MHZ)
GND	7	10
GND	8	9	/COLD_RESET

Now then, the best way I can think of doing this would be to disconnect the GND and VCC lines so there is no power going to it. Going after the DATA_IN/OUT lines won't work since the /COLD_RESET wire is still there and may lockout the console. Going after the CLK and /COLD_RESET lines will confuse the machine since there would be DATA_IN/OUT coming from 2 chips and confuse the console. Assuming this would work, you would need a 3 pole double throw switch like this one:

http://www.micromark.com/toggle-switch-3-pole-double-throw,8424.html

Here's a diagram of how it works. Bellow picture i'll explain it.



Imagine this as an ON/ON switch. Pins 1 and 3 of pole A are the 2 outputs for the for pin 2 depending on if the switch is in the left or right position. Pole B and C the same way. Works just like a DPDT switch but with a third leg in there. So if my idea works, here's the wiring order for everything.

Disconnect the GND and VCC of the CIC chips from the PCB (you can solder the rest of the connected pins on the 2 chips to PCB in a piggyback setup). Connect the GND and VCC wires of the PCB to pins 2 and 5 of the switch. Doesn't matter which ones go where as long as they are wired correct polarity to the CIC chips. Connect the VCC and GND of the 2 CIC chips to pins 1 and 4 for chip #1 and pins 3 and 6 for chip #2. Again, be sure of the polarity or else you just may fry the CIC and possibly the ED64 as well. Lastly, we need the third leg for switching the 6105 (or 7105 for you PAL guys) traces on the ED64 PCB. I'm going to say that chip 6105 was connected on the right side to pins 3 and 6. So we need to run 2 wires from the traces on PCB to pins 8 and 9 of switch. If you connected this CIC to pins 1 and 4, run these trace wires to pins 7 and 8. Polarity doesn't matter since there is nothing else in line of them. Here's another quick dirty diagram of the setup connected:



Tell me if you think this will work or not. If it does, this will save the trouble of changing chips out manually and the risk of breakage with it.

[saturnu]

Tell me if you think this will work or not. If it does, this will save the trouble of changing chips out manually and the risk of breakage with it.

hm, it should work - happy soldering ^^

btw:
i think you only have to deny gnd to deactivate one of both, there is no need to switch vcc, too
(but don't do it the other way around :D)

[sonicdude10]

i think you only have to deny gnd to deactivate one of both, there is no need to switch vcc, too
(but don't do it the other way around :D)

I thought of that too. May go that route if I can get a hold of a 6105. If that method works then a standard DPDT switch will work. Got dozens laying around as well as plenty of old IDE cables waiting to be re-purposed.

[H360]

Seems like it will work okay. You dont need all those jumpers though. You just need a switch on the voltage (VCC) lines. The grounds (GND) can all be tied together, and im sure one of those other unknown pins would be a /CE (Chip Enable) pin.

I will ask the N64 king if he knows about the /CE line.

[sonicdude10]

You do that now. Need this info for me to try it out. Not worried about the risk of blowing the CIC, ED64, or the N64. Got spare N64s around, can get another ED64 if this one dies, and I started a WTB for the 6105 CIC I need for this so now to play the waiting game. Also, there are 2 pads on the ED64 revision 2 that need to be bridged when using a 6105 according to saturnu. If that info is correct, they will need to be switched as well. See the first photo of post #12 for the pads location.

[saturnu]

Seems like it will work okay. You dont need all those jumpers though. You just need a switch on the voltage (VCC) lines. The grounds (GND) can all be tied together, and im sure one of those other unknown pins would be a /CE (Chip Enable) pin.

I will ask the N64 king if he knows about the /CE line.

are sure about only switching vcc? i think the vcc inactive one will still mess up the operation of the vcc active one, if gnd is tied together.
i would say swtiching gnd or vcc and gnd is the way to do this.


cheers saturnu

[H360]

I am very sure.

You can leave the grounds, but you would want to eliminate voltage.

[sonicdude10]

Well if I can get a hold of a 6105 I can try this out.

EDIT: Any news on the presence of a /CE line? I would think that one of the 2 VCC lines is for that since they typically are just pulled high from voltage source based what I can see on Chip Enable lines.

[gray.fullbusterzzz]

I have an idea which might just work. How about we hack all 6103 roms to use the 6102 bootcode? I suggested it once before and everyone ignored me. We need to extract the bootcode from a 6102 ROM of the same file size using RN64CRC 2.1 and insert it into the 6103 game using N64CICC 1.1. Both of these tools are in the link below.

http://n64.icequake.net/mirror/64sce....com/tools.htm

Then you should just need to put all the files downloaded and the two roms in the same directory and type into the command prompt "rn64crc.exe -e 6102game.z64" followed by "n64cicc.exe -F6103game.z64 -C6102"