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Thread: Xbox 360 graphics sometimes become fuzzy?

  1. #1

    Xbox 360 graphics sometimes become fuzzy?

    Hi. When I sometimes boot my 360 up, the graphics I notice have a blur effect or a fuzzing effect.
    After a few minutes, it goes away at random, and then comes back again at random.

    I get pissed off with it because it gives me a headache, and I rip out the power cord.
    When I plug it back in and reboot the 360, it works perfectly fine.


    Any ideas what this is?
    It has never red ringed, overheated or been opened.
    It is a 2008 model (falcon iirc)

    I think the HANA chip needs a good clean reball. Something must be lifting or not making a good contact.
    I say this, because after the system heats up and I unplug > re-plug the console, it works fine afterwards.
    It can not be a grounding issue with the component cables, because there are 3 of them, plus the additional 2 for audio.
    Last edited by H360; 04-06-2012 at 12:52 PM. Reason: spelling

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Haunted360 View Post
    Hi. When I sometime boot my 360 up, the graphics I notice have a blur effect or a fuzzing effect.
    After a few minutes, it goes away at random, and then comes back again at random.

    I get pissed off with it because it gives me a headache, and I rip out the power cord.
    When I plug it back in and reboot the 360, it works perfectly fine.


    Any ideas what this is?
    It has never red ringed, overheated or been opened.
    It is a 2008 model (falcon iirc)

    I think the HANA chip needs a good clean reball. Something must be lifting or not making a good contact.
    I say this, because after the system heats up and I unplug > re-plug the console, it works fine afterwards.
    It can not be a grounding issue with the component cables, because there are 3 of them, plus the additional 2 for audio.
    you need to do the x clamp fix, then take 2 q tips stick em in the fans turn the system on, wait for 2 rrod then let cool. then fixed :D

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by hacker360 View Post
    you need to do the x clamp fix, then take 2 q tips stick em in the fans turn the system on, wait for 2 rrod then let cool. then fixed :D
    You're an idiot.

  4. #4
    Pika CHUUUUUU!!! Member Hardcore
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    ^^ no your a idiot... that does work but is not advised, personaly i would clean it all off heatgun the board for about 2mins put decent thermal on it, stick it back together with the normal xclamps then leave it to overheat let it cool down and hey presto fixed.

  5. #5
    Uhm. No.

  6. #6
    Pika CHUUUUUU!!! Member Hardcore
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    gpu or hana is fucked reflow will fix it :P

  7. #7
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    You could at least recommend that he does a proper reflow >.>
    I come off as an arrogant jerk sometimes, feel free to bring me back down to level when that happens; however, it's not intentional most of the time.
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  8. #8
    Guys, I said: "I think the HANA chip needs a good clean reball"

    A reflow is not the correct way to fix the 360. It will just keep on breaking if you do this, and you run the risk of warping the board, burning out other components and even making other solder balls crack if you do not put it in a clamp / frame.
    Sure, it will work for maybe a week, maybe a month or even a year. The point is though, it is not the correct way to do it. So please stop suggesting it.



    This is electronics. Not a cooking class.
    There is only one correct solution to fix the problem.
    You can't just add more flower into the mix.
    Last edited by H360; 04-07-2012 at 12:28 AM.

  9. #9
    Send it to someone with professional experience to reball it then. Your only other options would be to send it to Microsoft or buy a new system.

  10. #10
    I can reball it myself. I have all the stuff I need.

    I just wanted to know, what was causing it.
    I mean, was is it the HANA chip on pad 86, or is is just a bad capacitor causing a voltage instability.
    Last edited by H360; 04-07-2012 at 01:34 AM. Reason: spelling

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Haunted360 View Post
    I can reball it myself. I have all the stuff I need.

    I just wanted to know, what was causing it.
    I mean, was is it the HANA chip on pads 86, or is is just a bad capacitor causing a voltage instability.
    I think its the EDRAM in the GPU DYE, A possible GPU swap with a Reball could fix it?

  12. #12
    It could be. Only time will tell if it progressively becomes worse.

  13. #13
    Master Baiter ASSEMbler Extreme
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haunted360 View Post
    I can reball it myself. I have all the stuff I need.
    Where did you get the money to afford the proper equipment? Buying stencils and lead balls is a good start but it takes a bit more than that to reball hardware. Hell, I don't even own the necessary setup and I'd stand to benefit quite greatly.

    And "flour" is used in cooking, not "flower".
    http://www.assemblergames.com/forums...ad.php?t=31524
    My feedback thread, since it seems somewhat difficult for people to find.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by APE View Post
    Where did you get the money to afford the proper equipment? Buying stencils and lead balls is a good start but it takes a bit more than that to reball hardware. Hell, I don't even own the necessary setup and I'd stand to benefit quite greatly.

    And "flour" is used in cooking, not "flower".
    I got the stencils, lead balls and the grid that holds the IC and stencils in place. I then just use my heatgun.

    How right you are. What a mistake xD

  15. #15
    Master Baiter ASSEMbler Extreme
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    Not too sure I'd want to trust a heatgun to remove anything using a BGA or to place it back on but to each their own.
    Last edited by APE; 04-07-2012 at 03:27 AM.
    http://www.assemblergames.com/forums...ad.php?t=31524
    My feedback thread, since it seems somewhat difficult for people to find.

  16. #16
    It works fine. I just heat tape off everything else.
    Why waste $1000 + on a reflow machine when a heat gun (or even a $50 hot air station) does the same thing...
    Last edited by H360; 04-07-2012 at 05:09 AM.

  17. #17
    Industrial heatguns are meant for removing paint not trying to reflow/reball a complex and fragile piece of computer hardware. A heatgun should never go anywhere near a computer to begin with, there is little to no control over the temperature so you run the high risk of damaging the chip or the motherboard. Now the proper way to fix this is with a rework station which is actually designed for reflowing/reballing which will fix your issue. From what your are describing it sounds like the gpu's solderballs are cracked not making a proper connection and need to be reflowed/reballed. In most cases like this, it is the gpu that has the problem and not the hana chip. Fix the gpu first as if done properly it won't hurt it then if it doesn't work try to reflow/reball the hana.

  18. #18
    Pika CHUUUUUU!!! Member Hardcore
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    ^^ my father has worked in electronics for 40 years, and he uses normal heatguns + rework stations. your not a complete retard a normal heatgun is fine... personaly i have used both and have never destroyed a board using a either. aslong as you keep it far away from the board and dont be a muppet and blast everything from 3cm away till the solder boil and your delaminate the chips

  19. #19
    Yeah, you're both right to some extent. A heatgun should not be used, but then again, I take the precautions.
    I mount the board in a frame and bolt it down. This prevents the warping of the PCB.
    I also have everything heat tapped off (or covered in foil).
    My heat gun, also does have a temperature controller, and I have set it to the correct temperature that the rework stations set.

  20. #20
    My first 360 actually had an issue with the HANA chip. It was actually the first hardware problem I ever had with the 360. I got a black screen with working audio in SD and HD modes, and Microsoft only covered RRoD-related issues back then (they wanted $120 + shipping to repair it).

    I ended up fixing it by wrapping a few copper pennies in electrical tape, putting them on top of the chip, and pushing it down and in place with the fan vent molding. I suppose the major downside to that fix is that it's a hindrance to proper ventilation in comparison to it not being there, but it worked for my Xenon 5 years ago, so it should work for you.

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