Mega-CD real region free on game discs

[venom4728a]

Thank you for responding so fast, I have been wanting to get this done for some time. I purchased 6 chips over a year ago, and these moved to the back burner, I have been MODDING other projects. I found these chips at the bottom of the box and remembered why I purchased them in the first place. What is your eprom burning fee and turn around time? The Chips i have are 27c4096-120dc
.
Best Regards
Robert

[APE]

How many do you need burnt? Turn around would probably be same day as it doesn't take but a few minutes to program a handful of chips and verify the data.

[Bad_Ad84]

16 bit adapter question was directed at APE.

The GQ-4X needs an adapter to program those chips - even though its DIP and the programmer has enough pins.

[venom4728a]

How many do you need burnt? Turn around would probably be same day as it doesn't take but a few minutes to program a handful of chips and verify the data.

I was thinking 3, I have a model 1, model 2 and CDX. Is it possible to put USA and JPN on the same chip and then select it with a switch?

I know the JAP bios is the most compatible, But I like english screens and would use the USA bios most of the time, and would only have to switch to the JAP for a few select titles.

Robert

[venom4728a]

Is 3 too much?


Robert

[fireaza]

Hi there guys!
I'm looking to get a Model 1 Mega CD/Sega CD, and then I heard about this awesome-sounding region-free mod! Now, all you need to do is replace the original BIOS chip right (a shame the BIOS on the Mega CD/Sega CD isn't flashable like motherbord BIOSs!)? From the looks of things, APE is burning BIOS chips for people? Is it just a matter of de-soldering the original BIOS and soldering in the new one? Is there anything else I should know? Thanks!

[APE]

I did discover that I have a few 16-bit EPROMs suitable for this mod.

[fireaza]

Well, I'm going to need a replacement BIOS at some point anyway :P Though it would probably make the most sense to get one from someone near me, any of you guys from Australia?

Anyway, for the time being, I'm going to need to purchase a Mega CD first. I'm looking to get a model 1 because I like the look of them, but I hear they're not as reliable as the model 2. What exactly can go wrong with them? I hear that blown fuses and gears that aren't in the right place are the common issues. If I got a non-working model 1, do you think you guys would be able to assist me in getting it up and running? And with reguards to AC adaptors, the Mega CD model 1 uses the exact same AC adaptor as the Mega Drive model 1 console itself right?

[venom4728a]

I did discover that I have a few 16-bit EPROMs suitable for this mod.

I purchased a tube with 6, that i have available to be flashed.

robert

[APE]

Send me a PM and we can discuss specifics.

16 bit adapter question was directed at APE.

The GQ-4X needs an adapter to program those chips - even though its DIP and the programmer has enough pins.

I did acquire the proper adapter.

[fireaza]

I've purchased a non-tested Mega CD model 1! If it turns out to be non-working, I'll try to fix it myself (I figured out how to fix a v1 controller's wonky D pad, so I'm feeling confident!), but if not, I might give you guys a shout. In the mean time, who's burning region-free BIOS chips, and where are you located?

[APE]

I have the equipment necessary to burn 16-bit EPROMs. I apparently have 2 AM27C4096 EPROMs on hand as well as two 27C010s (which are 8-bit IIRC, more suitable for NES reproductions).

As the side panel states I'm located in California. Bad_Ad84 should be capable of handling any European requests.

[fireaza]

I have the equipment necessary to burn 16-bit EPROMs. I apparently have 2 AM27C4096 EPROMs on hand as well as two 27C010s (which are 8-bit IIRC, more suitable for NES reproductions).

As the side panel states I'm located in California. Bad_Ad84 should be capable of handling any European requests.

I think America is slightly closer to Australia, so I think you're my man. Once I get my Mega CD and get it all up and running, I'll let you know when I'm ready for the new BIOS :D (unless someone more local to me pops up :P)

Wait a minute, did you say reproductions? Do you know how to make them? I'd like to get some Japanese Super Famicom carts and replace the ROM with an English-translated version so I can play the game in English on an original cart, but I lack the equipment (as well as the intricate knowledge on the process, but I do know how to solder things to other things). Can you do this?

[APE]

I've done a handful of NES reproductions but I haven't attempted any SNES reproductions but I'm sure I can handle it. The process isn't that much different and the equipment is the same. I just don't do labels for practical reasons.

Thankfully shipping from the US to Australia isn't terribly much.

[fireaza]

I've done a handful of NES reproductions but I haven't attempted any SNES reproductions but I'm sure I can handle it. The process isn't that much different and the equipment is the same. I just don't do labels for practical reasons.

Thankfully shipping from the US to Australia isn't terribly much.

Awesome! How much would you charge for such a service? And would the chips be ready for me to solder into the board, or would they need to be adapted? I'd be after a few Japanese-to-English translated games, and if you're not morally-opposed, an Earthbound reproduction. I know, I too feel a little icky about making a reproduction of a game that already exists in English. However, the game was never released in Australia, and continues to this day to be unavailable in any legal form. That, and I don't have the $300+ to blow on an original cartridge, as much as I'd love to own one.

[fireaza]

Okay, the Mega CD arrived today! The AC adaptor hasn't arrived yet, but I thought I'd get it all pulled apart as part of the cleaning process I put all my uses consoles though. As I'm giving the whole thing a good look over, I notice some of the components look odd. Here's a photo:

It might be a little hard to see, by the solder points on a few of the components near the heatsink, like that aqua colored thing have a little bit of a crust on them. I don't think the capacitors have exploded because, well, they look pretty unexploded from where I'm standing. Should I be worried?

[l_oliveira]

Not very useful as it's out of focus.

Make sure you look all the capacitors terminals and if they look like they oxidized, the capacitor leaked. The solder should have a metallic look, not a opaque look.

Also pay a special attention to the SMD capacitors on the digital board not only they cause disc read errors, they also corrode the traces that might knock the digital board out from working.

The ones on the analog board at a worst case scenario will leave you with a hum noise or no audio at all.

[fireaza]

Not very useful as it's out of focus.

Make sure you look all the capacitors terminals and if they look like they oxidized, the capacitor leaked. The solder should have a metallic look, not a opaque look.

Also pay a special attention to the SMD capacitors on the digital board not only they cause disc read errors, they also corrode the traces that might knock the digital board out from working.

The ones on the analog board at a worst case scenario will leave you with a hum noise or no audio at all.

Sorry, I wasn't able to focus the camera any better than that :( I didn't spot anything similar to this on the "digital board" (the square board that the Mega Drive itself slots into right?), though when I took a look at the underside of the board in the photo, there's more of that "crust" on the underside of a component. Should I be assuming this "crust" is the result of a leaked capacitor? Will it need to be replaced? And if so, were would I find replacements? Aside from all this, there doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the console, the tray assembly feels good and solid. The true test will be to see how it behaves once it's AC adaptor arrives!

[l_oliveira]

The crust is soldering flux residue from the factory.
Leave it alone as it does even protect the board from oxidization.

The material that leaks from the capacitor becomes basic (or acidic depending on the chemicals on the capacitor) when it reacts with the oxygen from the air and cause board damage which is quite visible.

If you don't see any green/brown spots by the capacitor terminals you can assume they did not leak yet.

[fireaza]

The crust is soldering flux residue from the factory.
Leave it alone as it does even protect the board from oxidization.

The material that leaks from the capacitor becomes basic (or acidic depending on the chemicals on the capacitor) when it reacts with the oxygen from the air and cause board damage which is quite visible.

If you don't see any green/brown spots by the capacitor terminals you can assume they did not leak yet.

Is it normal that this flux residue is only on a few components? I'm not seeing any damage to the silicon board itself, and this crust only seems to cover the solder points, so it may be just that. Well anyway, there's not much I can know at this stage without the AC adaptor :P It should hopefully be arriving soon, I'll let you guys know how everything goes down!