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BasiliskFang
01-23-2012, 08:27 PM
picked up a psone, it will spin but it doesn't read games. i put the 1001 laser assembly in and still no reading, just spinning.

i switched the top plastic of the assemblies but now the new assembly in the old psx doesn't spin.

i was trying to follow this:
http://i54.tinypic.com/zwke1y.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/2q2fp1c.jpg
http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html

H360
01-24-2012, 01:55 AM
The 100x series laser diodes does not work with a 10x series PSone if I recall from my tests.

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 03:03 AM
Pretty sure thats wrong and it works fine.

ASSEMbler
01-24-2012, 03:10 AM
1001 laser is different than psone is some minor ways.

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 03:19 AM
Yes, but I am pretty sure it works just fine.

You just need to swap the top plastic. You can use all laser units in any playstation 1 AFAIK, but some ribbon cables may not reach easily and plastic might need changing.

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 03:19 AM
Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqEwYwl2PFI

Someone doing exactly the same thing as the OP

Also, as I said above:


So does any Laser work with a 1001 series? My 1001 stopped working awhile ago where it wont read games anymore. Will replacing the laser give much more life to the console as i heard the first series is the worst built PSX.


any laser works, but the only one with the same orientation as the 1001 is the PSONe Slim. The later models are a little taller and don't fit. I tried a long time ago and pretty much gave up until I found a PSOne. Thanks for watching! hope this helps!

More confirmation:
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?184055-PsOne-laser-is-crapping-out-on-me!&p=2537803&viewfull=1#post2537803

H360
01-24-2012, 03:49 AM
He is trying to put a laser deck from a 100x (PS / PS1) into a 10x (PSone).

I do not think that this is possible. Ribbon cable is also too short, so it will need extending.

The motor is spinning because the Focus / Tracking MCU (IC722) is on a separate driven line (CN701), whereas the optical device (CN702) goes though its own ribbon cable to the RF amp, CD Digital Sound Processor, Digital Servo and in this case, the SPU on a PSone is inside this single MCU (IC732). If the laser diode is different for each laser unit, then it simply will not work.


KSM-440BAM Laser Diode PSone - SCPH-102
http://www.haunted360.com/images/playstation/playstation_photo_diode_2.jpg

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 03:52 AM
That makes no sense anyway, as the 100x units were crap.

The issue would likely be the lack of gain/trim pots on the PSone board, the later units did it "on board" the laser unit and didnt need them - which might explain the not reading issue.

edit:

You are implying that units are not cross compatible, which is false. You can use 10x units in any other console just fine as well as 5xxx + in anything too.

H360
01-24-2012, 04:03 AM
edit:

You are implying that units are not cross compatible, which is false. You can use 10x units in any other console just fine. The issue is lack of trim/gain on the playstation pcb to tweak the laser unit.

He is trying to use a 100x laser deck, in a 10x.

Only SOME are cross-compatible. IE: non-major revisions. Going from a SCPH-1001 for example to a SCPH-102, is a huge revision difference. Who knows what Sony did to the laser diode circuitry.

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 04:06 AM
give me an example of non major revisions you think are compatible and others you think are not compatible.

Because almost all work just fine. The issue I see with this I have already mentioned and you have ignored.

APE
01-24-2012, 04:14 AM
I'm with Bad_Ad84 here on every detail.

H360
01-24-2012, 04:14 AM
Why are you arguing? A KSM-440ACM/AAM (100x) laser diodes does not work in a KSM-440BAM (10x).

SCPH-5500 to SCPH-7500 is a small revision, where as SCPH-1001 to SCPH-102 is a huge revision. They complety changed the RAM, SPU, CD-DSP, CPU, BIOS etc...

End of story.

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 04:15 AM
Earliest series had potentiometers on the board for adjusting the reading mechanism, named BIAS, GAIN and an unknown one. By connecting a voltmeter between the upper-most metering point near the BIAS potentiometer and the chassis, the resulting voltage could be read. The supposed right values are 1.70 V when a CD is spinning at 1x speed and 1.85 V when a CD is spinning at 2x speed. Further tuning was also possible on the unique potentiometer present on the CD drive. Later series featured an automatic laser calibration mechanism.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_(console)

As I said, I suspect that is the issue.

If you are saying the 100x and 10x are totally incompatible due to circuity changes, why does the 10x laser work just fine on the 100x?

As I have said, it just sounds like the laser isnt (and cant be, due to lack of POTs) calibrated, rather than incompatible. The reverse works as they are compatible (as I have been saying) but calibration isnt required as its automatic.

You will probably find 100x units will work in 10x units in "luck of the draw", i.e. laser units that will work ok with what ever the 10x default values are.

qabbalist
01-24-2012, 04:29 AM
i had the same problem swapped lasers and the disc spins and no reading/playing adjusted the pot on the laser tried lots of settings i set the lens pots at 86.6 on digital multi-meter works great even backups
so when i mod / repair ps1's i always set the lens the same on all model's

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 04:32 AM
Also, changing the "RAM, SPU, CD-DSP, CPU, BIOS" makes little difference if the new unit is supplying the same data on the same pins. You can change parts of the laser unit (diode, what ever) long as the entire unit still outputs the same data.

APE
01-24-2012, 04:45 AM
Also, changing the "RAM, SPU, CD-DSP, CPU, BIOS" makes little difference if the new unit is supplying the same data on the same pins. You can change parts of the laser unit (diode, what ever) long as the entire unit still outputs the same data.

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5182/orlyg.jpg

The real reason video games were region locked? 50hz electrons don't work on 60hz TVs.

fasman
01-24-2012, 04:53 AM
Scph-100x lasers work perfectly well in SCPH-10x (Slimline), we were using them when the psone was just released and getting slimline lasers where difficult and expensive, simply swapping the casing will allow it to function perfectly.

Two things to try before adjusting the pot:
1 Is the spindle loose and not getting jammed
2 Check the fuses on the board :), cant remember wich it was but one stops the laser from getting power...

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 05:35 AM
Scph-100x lasers work perfectly well in SCPH-10x (Slimline), we were using them when the psone was just released and getting slimline lasers where difficult and expensive, simply swapping the casing will allow it to function perfectly.



Yes, but I am pretty sure it works just fine.

You just need to swap the top plastic. You can use all laser units in any playstation 1 AFAIK, but some ribbon cables may not reach easily and plastic might need changing.

Go me.

This makes me sad that Haunted is in charge of the PSIO thing :(

Elijah
01-24-2012, 08:00 AM
He likes to make himself sound more intelligent, so comments on things that he really knows nothing about. But since it is all misinformation, it is of course useless. It is almost as if he posts for the sake of increasing his post count.

Edit:


He is trying to put a laser deck from a 100x (PS / PS1) into a 10x (PSone).

I do not think that this is possible. Ribbon cable is also too short, so it will need extending.

This is also incorrect. The cable length is the same for both the KSM-440 AAM/ACM (SCPH-100x/3000 laser) and KSM-440 BAM (SCPH-10x laser). In fact that is why many considered the PSOne laser perfect for the original 100x models; every other model has a cable which is far too long, requiring you to tuck the cable in.

You only need a cable extension if you are putting the SCPH-100x/3000 or SCPH-10x laser in an SCPH-500x to SCPH-900x console. Every other kind of laser swap requires no such modification.

Why not just confirm this stuff before posting, or if you are unable to, simply refrain from posting?

fasman
01-24-2012, 08:22 AM
I think its also a case of practice experience, vs speculation...

PS Bad AD,was there ever any doubt?

HEX1GON
01-24-2012, 09:20 AM
I think its also a case of practice experience, vs speculation...


Exactly, we should be helping one another here :nod:

By the way, if the disc is spinning and not reading have you tried turning the little orange/white "screw" on the assembly? Not sure of it's technical name (maybe someone with more knowledge can name it :redface:) that fixed my problem with my PSone after it stopped reading discs and intro sound was high pitched, but it worked. I think it increases voltage or something to the assembly. I think I should stop trying to explain what it is :banghead:

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 09:29 AM
Pot

and its been mentioned several times in this thread :)

APE
01-24-2012, 09:34 AM
Pot

and its been mentioned several times in this thread :)

Heheheheh, you said pot.

To clarify for kicks, pot=potentiometer. You can safely think of them as a resistor whose value is adjustable by turning the screw, there is of course more to it than that but for PS1 purposes such a simplification is just fine. Ohm's law will dictate what effect the resistance will have on the circuit. SCIENCE!



Why not just confirm this stuff before posting, or if you are unable to, simply refrain from posting?

The former takes time and effort and the latter isn't something teenagers want to do when they feel they're on the same level as the cool kids. I used to be that way myself so while I can understand why he is doing what he is doing that doesn't mean I'm going to approve of it. As much as I'd like to think I've outgrown such behavior... :shrug:

And I personally have a franken-SCPH-1001 with the entire assembly from a SCPH-101. Didn't have the original plastic bits for the 1001 so I sanded the case of the 1001 until the 101's donor fit nicely. Works extremely well and fits like a proverbial glove.

OTOH the thought of dropping a 100x laser into a 10x makes me cringe. Such an unholy act cannot and should not be condoned.

Bad_Ad84
01-24-2012, 09:40 AM
potentiometer is too long to type (I even copied and pasted it in this post).

:P

HEX1GON
01-24-2012, 09:43 AM
Ahh I'll be sure to remember that from now rather than sounding like an idiot rofl. Thanks guys! -- LOL Screw.. :|

BasiliskFang
01-25-2012, 03:44 AM
ok, so any idea on this fuse? and i should get a digital multimeter and fix the pot settings.

this thread is about doing both: slim laser on a 1001 and a 1001 laser on a slim.

i want to use the slim laser in the 1001 because i have parallel port hackers which work well, i basically want to get rid of the fmv skipping issues.

jinn
01-25-2012, 06:48 AM
There is a chance the gain or bias POT is no longer working properly for one reason or another.
You will need to remove the POT and solder a resistor to have a default value.

BasiliskFang
01-25-2012, 04:38 PM
on which system?

APE
01-25-2012, 05:23 PM
ok, so any idea on this fuse? and i should get a digital multimeter and fix the pot settings.

The only fuses I'm currently aware of - there might be more but I've always fixed whatever problem I've had with these - are in the bottom left part of the motherboard near the power and laser ribbon connectors.

They look like this for the most part:
http://static.traderscity.com/board/userpix85/40025-Playstation-2-Ps2-Smd-Fuse-Part-1.jpg

I'm not 100% sure of the values anymore but I have used the PS2 value charts to replace them and I've yet to have anything explode or die on me as a result. Though this does not mean the value system is identical. Check them for a short, if the fuse reads as shorted it is good. If it reads as open it has blown and needs to be replaced.

A really stupid way to check this is to bridge the pads the fuse sits on top of to see if it works again. Obviously if the fuse blew it blew for a reason and shorting the space it formerly occupied could lead to even bigger problems that aren't easily fixed; or fixed at all.

billcosbymon
01-25-2012, 06:55 PM
And I personally have a franken-SCPH-1001 with the entire assembly from a SCPH-101. Didn't have the original plastic bits for the 1001 so I sanded the case of the 1001 until the 101's donor fit nicely. Works extremely well and fits like a proverbial glove.

I did the same thing too haha.

Elijah
01-25-2012, 07:02 PM
I did the same (minus the case modification, as I had the top from my old laser) with a refurbished Chinese PSOne laser (the ones sold on eBay) in my SCPH-1000 and that worked fine, although skipped a lot of the time. But then I came across on otherwise dead SCPH-1002 with a perfect KSM-440 ACM laser in it, and replaced it with that laser instead. I have honestly never seen a PlayStation that reads disc better than it does now.

fasman
01-25-2012, 07:36 PM
They look like this for the most part:
http://static.traderscity.com/board/userpix85/40025-Playstation-2-Ps2-Smd-Fuse-Part-1.jpg



Yup, but just bare in mind that they changed them in the second revision Psone Consoles, to the smaller ones :)

PS The first models fuses are located http://psx-scene.com/forums/attachments/f10/2056d1061087139-newz-psone-board-fuses-ps1_fuses00.jpg , the second models ones are more or less in the same place, there easy enough to spot


A really stupid way to check this is to bridge the pads the fuse sits on top of to see if it works again. Obviously if the fuse blew it blew for a reason and shorting the space it formerly occupied could lead to even bigger problems that aren't easily fixed; or fixed at all.

:-(
What ever you do dont do that a meter is dirt cheap and you dont need a good one just to check for continuity ,bridging all of them can and probably will destroy your PSone :/

APE
01-25-2012, 09:00 PM
What ever you do dont do that a meter is dirt cheap and you dont need a good one just to check for continuity ,bridging all of them can and probably will destroy your PSone :/

Continuity is the smart way, bridging them is the stupid way that most people get lazy and leave in place because it fixed the problem.

Unless you're like me and find most problems related to fuses are because of something being shorted against the shielding or controllers that like to pull too much current for rumble. Those get swapped with PPTC fuses so I don't have to crack it back open because I tested a bad controller. Usually the current draw isn't at infinite (short) and is only 50-150ma higher than what the fuse is rated for a split second. Unless your controller is really bent on destroying your PS1.

Last fuse I blew was on a PS2, the wires for the fan were stuck under part of the metal inside and had enough pressure to dig through the insulation. The fuse promptly blew and it took all of 15 seconds to figure out why the fan wasn't spinning. Quick solder job later and all was good.

REPLACE FUSES WITH FUSES!