How I got my DSP-1 installed and working.

[AtariBorn]

I couldn't, for the life of me, find a decent write-up on how to do this. So I thought I'd throw this out there for anyone who was having trouble getting this thing going.

I started with a version 1.6 Super Everdrive and a spare Mario Kart.

I removed the DSP1B from my Mario Kart sac cart and the clock generator (on mine, it was a small, white, rectangular block).

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/MarioKartDSP.jpg

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/MarioKartClock.jpg

I soldered the DPS1 on its designated spot on the Everdrive and noticed the clock generator had no markings at all and I wasn't sure which direction it should be soldered on. I could tell where on the board it should be (on the opposite side of the DSP).

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/DSP1Installed.jpg

I did notice that it had a small red dot on one side, looked almost like a red marker dot, like the results of the QC department or something. After hours of searching to no avail, I took a shot in the dark and just soldered it in.

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/Clockinstalled.jpg

I tried loading Mario Kart and never got passed the coin up sound after the Nintendo logo. I tried Pilot Wings and got all the way through the menu but never loaded the first level. So I desoldered the clock generator and soldered it back in the reverse position and had the same results as before. It was obvious that something was wrong.

I needed the 74HCU04 chip that everyone was claiming came inside the Pilot Wings cart. Well, I didn’t use a Pilot Wings cart and my Mario Kart didn't have the 74HCU04 chip. I knew there was a square marked on the Everdrive for the chip, but it wasn't until recently that I had heard that it wasn't optional, you need this to enable the DSP.

So I got to Googling what devices/games would contain the chip and ran across a forum mentioning its existence in the original NES. I just happened to have a couple spare "spring loaded" NES control decks lying around and I cracked one open. Low and behold, there was a 74HCU04 inside.

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/NESBoard.jpg

It took a little while, in fact it took a lot of effort to get this little guy out. After heating and desoldering and heating and desoldering, I got it out and 2 minutes later, it was soldered into its new home in my new Super Everdrive.

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/74HCU04.jpg

I tested every DSP enabled ROM I had and everything works great! :-)

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/MarioKart1.jpg

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp22/AtariBorn/MarioKart2.jpg

I never did figure out what the deal was with the resistor everyone was talking about. I hope I don't find out later that it was a critical component. :rolleyes:

I hope this helps someone. Oh, and if I'm misinforming anyone on this process, please let me know. I just had a hell of a time trying to find a decent walkthrough on this and found next to nothing.

[ASSEMbler]

For the love of god, pictures please.

[Den Tarr]

See my thread (with pictures) from a while back where Krikzz explains it all:

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35602

Btw: To find out which way the White Thingie goes in, just trace its connection on the original cart. Its connected just the same way on Krikzz cart.

[Bad_Ad84]

Pretty sure it doesnt matter which way around the clock generator goes

[Den Tarr]

Pretty sure it doesnt matter which way around the clock generator goes

Well... better safe then sorry.

[AtariBorn]

Pictures added ^

[Bad_Ad84]

You dont need to put anything on the 2 sets of pads, as you used the original part from donor cart.

[KRIKzz]

nooo nes was killed :crying:
almost all dsp carts has 74hcu04 inside, but not yours

[AtariBorn]

If it makes you feel better KRIKzz, that NES had all kinds of problems. I was keeping it around for parts.:thumbsup:

[Bad_Ad84]

You can buy a 74HCU04 for next to nothing anyway. You could always refit a new one into the NES at a later date.

[Mamejay]

The resistor you have heard about was for the old version of the SNES ED. This new design you don't have to worry about.

[Bad_Ad84]

I thought the DSP-1 was only added in the latest revision?

Or do you mean a resistor that did something else unrelated to the DSP-1?

As the DSP-1 installation also has 2 caps you might need to install.

[Mamejay]

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showpost.php?p=494115&postcount=104
This is the earlier version adding DSP

[DC_Lov]

So , KRIKzz

I'm gonna crack open my Japanese Mario Cart for parts.

Can you confirm that Japanese Mario Cart has all the parts needed to get DSP-1 chip working on SFC Everdrive?

I don't have NES to kill , only a few Famicoms and I'm not killing it. :P

[Bad_Ad84]

Just order the part its available on ebay, digikey, mouser, rs components, farnell etc.

take your pick

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INSC-MM74HCU04N-MC74HCU04N-74HCU04N-14PIN-DIP-New-3PCS-/270483444442?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3efa11d2da#ht_500wt_922

[DC_Lov]

Ordering parts from Ebay is probably over kill for me since I live in Asia.

Shipping for 1 74HCU04N is like 13 USD and will probably takes 3 weeks to get here.

For 13 USD I can buy around 4 Mario Karts cartridges.

[Bad_Ad84]

You should be able to get them locally. They are an extremely common part in the electronics world.

Ebay and the rest were just examples of how common and easy to get they are. Locally they cost around $0.15 or so

[DC_Lov]

Will try my local electronic shop , thanks.

[KRIKzz]

So , KRIKzz

I'm gonna crack open my Japanese Mario Cart for parts.

Can you confirm that Japanese Mario Cart has all the parts needed to get DSP-1 chip working on SFC Everdrive?

I don't have NES to kill , only a few Famicoms and I'm not killing it. :P

i don't know if your mario cart has 74chu04 inside, but almost all dsp carts which i seen has this ic, but some carts may use other chip, like on photos above

[Shigure]

Ack! Why are people destroying good games? :crying:
I got my DSP from Ballz 3d and it has everything you need including the 4HCU04N.
Payed a whole $5 for it. It's not that rare.

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/8529/ballz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/851/ballz.jpg/)


:-( Stop destroying good games. Think of the children!

[AtariBorn]

So why doesn't someone become a distributor for the parts needed? Someone who can source the parts and peddle them here.

You could just package it as a Super Everdrive DSP Kit.

I tried forever to get a Super Everdrive with the DSP installed and barely missed the stock every time. I found a non DSP version and jumped on it.

If someone had offered such a kit with the DSP, Clock, 74HCU04 and an instruction card, I would have paid $20 to $25 for it, easy.

[Shigure]

So why doesn't someone become a distributor for the parts needed? Someone who can source the parts and peddle them here.

You could just package it as a Super Everdrive DSP Kit.

I tried forever to get a Super Everdrive with the DSP installed and barely missed the stock every time. I found a non DSP version and jumped on it.

If someone had offered such a kit with the DSP, Clock, 74HCU04 and an instruction card, I would have paid $20 to $25 for it, easy.

The problem with that is that there wouldn't be much profit in it when you take in account all the labor involved:



Hunting down DSP equipped carts at a reasonable price. Say, in the $3 ~ $6 range. A lot of resellers think they can mark-up whatever they want just because something is retro. For example eBay, where you can buy super rare copies of Contra 3. :rolleyes:
De-soldering all the parts, which takes a bit of time specially if you don't have a heat gun and such.
Printing a manual. $$$ Unless you do a really crappy one. :-P

For $20 ~ $25 it's not worth it. If someone manufactures a DSP clone then it might make sense.

[Bad_Ad84]

You wouldnt print a manual. Make it once and put it online.

But the rest applies. Too much work for too little gain

[dragonstrap]

Ack! Why are people destroying good games?
...
:-( Stop destroying good games. Think of the children!

Mario Kart is too much of a shame for me to want to break, especially since I would want the DSP1 mainly for Mario Kart and maybe a little for Pilot Wings. Breaking an original Mario Kart just so I can play it off a ROM and a handful of other games that I don't really care about seems like a bad deal. I recently bought a copy of "Final Stretch" for my DSP1 needs.

I remember seeing somewhere that someone had broken a good Mega Drive game just to gut the case for the EverDrive board. I can't remember exactly which game, but I think it may have been Sonic 3 - in the mean time about 4000 copies of Columns and Ex-Mutants remain unharmed.

Having said all that, thanks to AtariBorn for the pictures all the same!

[AtariBorn]

Having said all that, thanks to AtariBorn for the pictures all the same!

Well, I hope my post helped at least 1 or 2 people. That was my intention from the start. ;-)

[rivlez]

Well, I hope my post helped at least 1 or 2 people. That was my intention from the start. ;-)

Definitely helped me out. I wouldn't really know which way everything went and what I needed. Thanks Atariborn!

[Bboydocument]

Hey guys

I've soldered things before, but I'm a novice when it comes to desoldering.

I'm trying to desolder the dsp1, quartz, and 74xx chip and I'm using a solder sucker. While heating the solder, I can't get it to suck the solder from the pads, I've tried everything. I think i may have held the iron on the white qurtz for too long also..Is there any techniques someone can share?

[AtariBorn]

If you're using a desoldering "bulb", I can understand your frustration. Your best bet would be a spring loaded desoldering device, where you cock the spring back then hit a button to trigger the suction.

Never tried using a desoldering braid although I've heard good things.

You will still have to pry under the chips a little even after you've desoldered the pins. They're in there pretty tight. Just be gentle.

[KRIKzz]

best way to desolder is a hot air gun or gas cooker.
edit: here is the some video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pVPg8ZJ_2c

[Bboydocument]

If you're using a desoldering "bulb", I can understand your frustration. Your best bet would be a spring loaded desoldering device, where you cock the spring back then hit a button to trigger the suction.

Never tried using a desoldering braid although I've heard good things.

You will still have to pry under the chips a little even after you've desoldered the pins. They're in there pretty tight. Just be gentle.

Thanks for that. I'm using a spring loaded suction pump thing for desoldering in one hand, and holding the iron in the other hand.
But the sheer frustration of this process! I'm holding the iron on the pad to soften the solder, i then use the suction which gets some of it - but there's still some a tiny bit left in the hole, enough to keep the chip attached to the board. So annoying! The pins are so long on this chip which also doesnt help the suction

Then what else is weird is that i will hold the iron on some pads and the solder doesn't soften, but the chip is still scorching hot?! so the heat isn't melting the solder but is it still frying the chip?

The middle pin of the white quartz thing is impossible for me to desolder - i've tried everything. The solder on this pin just won't soften but the chip still gets hot?!

I just hope I haven't damaged anything with heat? What do you think?


best way to desolder is a hot air gun or gas cooker.
edit: here is the some video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pVPg8ZJ_2c

Thanks Krikzz, god i wish i watched this video before i tried the method above. i just hope i haven't damaged anything!

[Bboydocument]

Krikzz, the stove trick worked! Thanks.

Questions:
1) I just realised this guide is not for cart rev1.3 :( I have a v1.3 snes ed...so is there anything I can do with these 3 chips and solder them to the board?

2) can i check with multimeter to see if these chips are faulty?

EDIT: It's okay, forget it, just saw this post: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showpost.php?p=541456&postcount=154

Apart from the DSP1, it looks like the white crystal and the 74hxx chip are useless for the v1.3.

[pablomaldito]

The 1.3 board is made to use the white thing plus a surface mount 74hcu04 (and I think an extra resistor too). But you can save yourself a lot of trouble by just using a 7.6mhz oscillator like Tomy did. For the first method, you would have to order a surface mount 74hcu04 anyways, so you might as well just order an oscillator instead and go with the simpler method.

[KRIKzz]

8mhz oscillator also fine. 7.6mhz sometimes hard to find

[dragonstrap]

Here's my installation of DSP1 using Pilotwings. I've tried desoldering before using that solder wick stuff and it was painful and crappy. This time I got it all removed from the donor board in about 30 seconds.

1. Put the board, chips face down in a vice.
2. Apply a heat gun with the odd gentle tap from above with a flat screwdriver.
3. Watch the chips effortlessly fall out.

This is perfect for DSP1 salvaging because all the components are on one side, so you won't risk scorching anything.

note: if you see a little red dot drawn on the white box thing, that goes toward the outside of the board when putting it in your everdrive.

[MottZilla]

Ack! Why are people destroying good games? :crying:
I got my DSP from Ballz 3d and it has everything you need including the 4HCU04N.
Payed a whole $5 for it. It's not that rare.

:-( Stop destroying good games. Think of the children!

I agree, plus Ballz 3D is a horrible game. Infact there are a number of terrible DSP1 games. Don't destroy Pilot Wings or Mario Kart which are the best DSP1 games that are likely what you intend to play on your SED cart anyway.

[squale]

Krikzz, is the procedure the same with my SED v1.3 ?
Thx

[KRIKzz]

instalation to v1 is more hard and need some extraparts
http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showpost.php?p=494115&postcount=104

[lnx64]

Hate to say it, but I desolder using those rubber bulb thing you use on babies to get snot out their nose..

Yea, I know, disgusting, but hey it works! And I even see Radioshack selling these kind of thing too..

[gamefan1984]

Tutorial worked great, thank you! I used the 3 minute heating up the stove trick to pop all the chips off; much quicker that trying to use a desoldering braid.

[erkan]

I have a 1.3 everdrive. I think I messed up when installing DPS because MK or PW wont work, in PW I get the menu etc but when the flying part begin it crashes, MK just shows Nintendo logo.

I think I destroyed the clock when I desoldered it. Where can I find a three legged one or what should I search to find one to replace it with? Seems overkill just to buy another DSP game for the tiny part.

When I search for an 7.6mhz oscillator I get these but they are two legged not three legged: http://www.sky-macau.com/Products/Crystal-Oscillators-C44/Page-1/ItemsPerPage-20.html

[Bad_Ad84]

I installed the original parts for someone and it didnt work on a 1.3 either. Refitting the parts to the original cart - still works.

Doing the 7.6-8mhz osc way worked fine though, so id suggest doing that.