PS1 Debugger Power Supply Issue

[Disjaukifa]

Hey Guys,

This is about my Playstation Debugger Unit DTL-H1001 which seems to have a slight power supply issue. It doesn't seem to be getting power UNLESS I push down on the power cable at the back of the unit. Then the DTL-H1001 boots up and plays fine.

Could it just be that the power connector on the power supply inside the unit is going bad and I just need to replace it with another power supply from a similar unit or should I look to see if maybe something has wiggled loose and try soldering it back together?

*Edit* I hope this is the correct place to post this. I figured this would fall under restoration as I'm trying to get it to work like it originally did. *Edit*

Thanks
Disjaukifa

[Cyantist]

Yank a PSU out of any normal PS1. Insert into Debug PS1. I dont think there any different.

[Disjaukifa]

Yank a PSU out of any normal PS1. Insert into Debug PS1. I dont think there any different.

That is what I was hoping to hear! I just need to find a cheap PS1 now. Of to the eBay :katamari:!

Thanks
Disjaukifa

[BM-Viper]

Or if you're handy with a soldering iron, resolder the coaxial connector.

[Disjaukifa]

Or if you're handy with a soldering iron, resolder the coaxial connector.

I'm not that good with a soldering iron, I can do two wires together but I'm not good when it comes to soldering wires and other electronics onto a PCB.

-Disjaukifa

[ASSEMbler]

And I just threw out a box of psone psu... oh well

[retro]

Or if you're handy with a soldering iron, resolder the coaxial connector.

Co-ax?? That's an RF aerial socket!

Kev, why would you throw out spare parts?!

[Disjaukifa]

Co-ax?? That's an RF aerial socket!

Kev, why would you throw out spare parts?!

More than likely the amount of space it requires, which I understand all too well. I've had to sell/donate/give away various things this year to make room for my daughter who was born earlier this year.

I've been looking for a PS1 on eBay, but I have a question. Does it matter which model of PS1 I get from eBay as long as its SCPH 1000 ~ 7000?

Thanks
Disjaukifa

[Elijah]

SCPH-100x to SCPH-750x will allow you to use a cheat cartridge, to perform an easy swap trick to play backed up copies (and you can store cheats on there too of course). SCPH-900x and the slim PSOne don't have the slot. That's the most important difference between the models.

[Disjaukifa]

SCPH-100x to SCPH-750x will allow you to use a cheat cartridge, to perform an easy swap trick to play backed up copies (and you can store cheats on there too of course). SCPH-900x and the slim PSOne don't have the slot. That's the most important difference between the models.

But are the power supplies different? Thats what I worried the most about . . .

-Disjaukifa

[Elijah]

Oh sorry, didn't realize that you were the OP.

I have an SCPH-1002, SCPH-7502 and an SCPH-9002 and the power supplies seem to be an identical type (in terms of size, shape and connector they are the same). Of course the slim uses a completely different type though...

[Disjaukifa]

Oh sorry, didn't realize that you were the OP.

I have an SCPH-1002, SCPH-7502 and an SCPH-9002 and the power supplies seem to be virtually identical. Of course the slim uses a completely different type though...

Thank you! The only other playstation I have at the moment is PSOne which like you said is completely different. I think I'm going to go to my local flea-market this weekend to see if I can find a dirt cheap playstation to use for parts.

If I get one thats in really good shape I'll have a spare laser as well which is always a good thing since the DTL-H1001 are know to have laser issues.

-Disjaukifa

[Ashen]

It's an easy repair mate, you just need to restore solder on power connector. I believe if you open console and watch on it's solder point you'll find cold soldering on it.
At least you can post here a foto of PSU's board bottom side^_^.

[Disjaukifa]

It's an easy repair mate, you just need to restore solder on power connector. I believe if you open console and watch on it's solder point you'll find cold soldering on it.
At least you can post here a foto of PSU's board bottom side^_^.

I'll do that when I get around to taking the DTL-H1001 apart. I'll post pictures of what I find. I need to get another PSX first, keeping my eye out for a cheap one on ebay and various sites but haven't had the chance to buy one yet.

-Disjaukifa

[Ashen]

Why to spare money if you may check (maybe even repair) your DTL first?^_^

[Disjaukifa]

Why to spare money if you may check (maybe even repair) your DTL first?^_^

Because I'm not confident in my ability to solder and I figure go ahead and get a Playstation for Parts. If I can get a spare Playstation but I'm able to fix my Debug unit, well hey I have another playstation to mess around with.

I just want to be able to fix my playstation, I hate trying something and then having to go out and find parts to fix it and do more waiting.

I have enough projects in mind that if I don't need the spare parts playstation, I'll still have a use for it.

-Disjaukifa

[Ashen]

Upload a foto of PSU board first - it may be a lot easier than you thought^_^

[Disjaukifa]

Upload a foto of PSU board first - it may be a lot easier than you thought^_^

I'll do it tonight when I get home. I might be getting a playstation this afternoon locally for parts. I'll post pictures of both tonight if I get the parts playstation

-Disjaukifa

[retro]

I remember when you could get a Chinese Playstation PSU very cheap. They were good replacements, fitted straight in, yes they worked on any console and they even worked from 110-240V, allowing them to be used in any region (something you couldn't do with an original PSU).

[Disjaukifa]

I remember when you could get a Chinese Playstation PSU very cheap. They were good replacements, fitted straight in, yes they worked on any console and they even worked from 110-240V, allowing them to be used in any region (something you couldn't do with an original PSU).

I looked into get a 3rd party PSU which would have been about 9 bucks plus shipping. However I won a Playstation 1 on eBay last night for 0.99 and is located in the town I live in so I'm just going to pick it up so I don't have to pay shipping.

. . . Though I'm still waiting for the guy to get back to me about paying him for just the console and not shipping and picking up the playstation.

I didn't get around to taking apart the DTL-H1001, I'm probably going to wait till I have a parts playstation before I do it. Mostly because I want to take the parts playstation apart first to learn what exactly how to do, if I screw up the parts playstation who cares . . . I screw up the DTL-H1001 . . . well I would be extremely upset . . .

-Disjaukifa

[Disjaukifa]

Hey Guys,

I took apart my DTL-H1001 Debugger system to find out I don't think this console was used that much . . . ever. Here are some pictures! The last two are of what I think the problems are!

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1530/img3207se.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4973/img3208c.jpg

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9491/img3211cn.jpg

I'm not sure if the hole in the chip below is a problem, I don't think it is . . .

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7571/img3214um.jpg

Here is what I think the issue is and I'm going to try to re-solder it:

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8057/img3218h.jpg

Thanks
Disjaukifa

[Alchy]

Could be a very easy fix if it's just that one bad connection.

[Disjaukifa]

Could be a very easy fix if it's just that one bad connection.

I'm thinking that might be it because When I push down on the power cable, which seems to lift up that tap to make contact with the PCB the playstation turns on. I just need to fine my solder, I found the iron . . .

-Disjaukifa

[Ashen]

As i've said earlier - fix is very easy - resolder connector and it will make you happy for years again. ^_^ But resolder both pins of connector, just to be sure that another pin won't get in the same state in few months.

[retro]

Yes, resolder the live and neutral pins, should be fine then. Heat both the pin and the track with the iron, then apply solder to the track so it melts and flows, then remove the iron. It's best to remove the old solder with a solder sucker if possible before applying new stuff.

What hole in the chip? The notch on the top of that small 8-pin chip? That marks pin 1. You'll either see that, or a semi-circle at the top of the chip, indicating pin one is to the left. Or, in this case, both!

[Disjaukifa]

Yes, resolder the live and neutral pins, should be fine then. Heat both the pin and the track with the iron, then apply solder to the track so it melts and flows, then remove the iron. It's best to remove the old solder with a solder sucker if possible before applying new stuff.

What hole in the chip? The notch on the top of that small 8-pin chip? That marks pin 1. You'll either see that, or a semi-circle at the top of the chip, indicating pin one is to the left. Or, in this case, both!

Unfortunately I just saw your post and I did not solder it back that way. HOWEVER I have a perfectly functioning DTL-H1001 Playstation Debugger Station!

It turned out to just be that, I don't have a solder sucker so I just add more solder though I admit it was not the best I have ever done, but it seems to be getting the job done. I think it would have be easier if I had a smaller tip for my soldering iron as well.

Thanks for all the information guys!!!

Thanks
Disjaukifa

[retro]

Go get a solder sucker and a smaller tip - you might still get those in Radio Shack and they should be about $5 for a tip and maybe the same or a bit more for the sucker. eBay if not. Both are worthwhile investments.

Reflowing the solder will work, but it can cause dry joints - there's no flux in it and it could have impurities. Also, you want the joint to look more like a volcano than a blob!

[Segata Sanshiro]

Shell is in awful condition..

Touch the points with your iron and add a minimal amount of solder after a few seconds of holding the iron the points. Job done.

[Cyberghost]

I have an scph-1001 and scph-7something and I tried to swap the power supplies because my 1001 doesn't power up and they are not the same. one of them had more wires so uneven amount of pins. sucks because my 1001 still doesn't work. but good thing you got yours fixed.

[Ashen]

It's not a problem actually. SCPH-100x PSU have 7 wires, while SCPH-700x have only 5 wires.
Difference between them is very simple - additional two wires on SCPH-100x board is just another +3.3V power line and ground wire.
Power connectors on both mainboards marked as CN602. Pinout is:
SCPH-100x SCPH-700x
1 => +7.5V <= 1
2 => GND <= 2
3 => +3.3V <= 3
4 => GND <=4
5 => +3.3V (connect together with pin 3)
6 => GND
7 => Reset <= 5
Try it. If mainboard is alive console should at least show BIOS startup sequence.
If not - try to check voltage on your SCPH-100x PSU ouput conectort, may be PSU is OK, while mainboard itself dead.