100V stepdown mess solution?

[ZueriHB]

I think many Europeans which import game consoles from overseas, be it the USA or Japan, have the same problem.

A cluttering of stepdown converters for each system without a usable EU-AC-Adapter (Like Famicom, Super Famicom, FDS, Dreamcast, PS2, etc)

Are there any power bars or stepdown converters which can power more than one console, so that only one or two converters will be needed. Instead of one for every device (Just think of a MegaCD32X).

Has anyone had experiences with a solution to this 'PAL-Land-Problem'? As my collection of import system grows, also does the need for additional power bricks.

btw: Prais to consoles with external power bricks with EU-equivalents (X360, GC, Wii, N64)

[alphagamer]

i have a 200w stepdown converter with 2 sockets.

[Treamcaster]

Lol, I have the same problem! Hopefully there might be a way...

[alphagamer]

also when possible i fit an european psu in the console.

[retro]

Umm, I have a heavy duty step-down that'll power any console. I just use the original PSU that came with the console. When I want to use the console, I plug it in. There's no reason to leave more than one plugged in at a time - you can't play them both at once, and you shouldn't leave devices plugged in when unused anyway!

If you REALLY wanted to, you could swap most PSUs for a local equivalent. As you said, some of the custom ones (e.g. N64, Gamecube) are swappable. Others use standard connectors (Mega Drive/Genesis, Super Famicom (not American SNES), NES etc.) so you can replace the PSU with either a genuine one in your country, or go to your local electronics store and get something that outputs the same voltage and current (note: you can go over the current rating, but not under).

So yeah, either replace the PSU or have a single, decent step-down that'll power whichever console you want to use at the time ;-)

[ZueriHB]

Super Famicom does not like European power supplies, and with a 3rd Party, it has scrolling artefacts on the screen, and the sound humms.

Also I do not like to un-and replug JAP/US powersupplies, those prongs seem to be a lot less sturdy than European ones.

Great would be a Step-Down converter with a power switch, and connecting a power bar or what those things are called in English.

[babu]

I just got me one of these:
http://gallery.obsolete.se/images/07xmas4.jpg

[arnoldlayne]

also when possible i fit an european psu in the console.

That's exactly what I did to my jap xbox/ps2's (two of em') and dreamcast consoles. Ideally, go for the multi-voltage ones which auto-regulate the power so there really is no worry of ever blowing something up, wherever you travel.

The Gamecube doesn't fall into this category as you can use a EU psu on a Jap/US console (I think that's the case with all Nintendo consoles, as the psu is always external?)

The only internal psu I couldn't buy for a console for was for my Jap saturn... Does anyone know if they ever existed (110-240v internal replacable psu that auto regulates) ?

I'd love to know.

btw/ If anyone's ever worried about using a chinese replacement psu over things like poor quality products/etc...

My jap xbox (yes, they do exist!) had a replacement psu fitted about 6 years ago and finally blew up around 8 months ago. I always pulled out the power chord to plug stuff in so I'd always hear that 'burst' of electricty (spike) whenever I unplugged it. Eventually I guess it got too much (my xbox was my media center for all those years, used everyday....and then some) Anyway, I replaced it a few months later and it's up and running again, as before.

Bottom line - those things aren't cheaply made and they can take a heck of a lot of use. I'd go so far as to say the Chinese psu was probably better made than the original psu it came with.

[retro]

Super Famicom does not like European power supplies, and with a 3rd Party, it has scrolling artefacts on the screen, and the sound humms.


If you get hum, and it is only with a 3rd party PSU, then you haven't bought the right PSU!

You need the right voltage, AT LEAST the right current, AC or DC (IMPORTANT as SNES/NES use AC, not DC which is the more common for a generic PSU) and note whether the original was regulated or unregulated. The console usually handles regulation.

Come to think of it, you should get a European PSU that works fine. Check the specs on the Japanese one, but I'm sure we used them no problem. And that the replacement ones we sold were marked NES / Super Nintendo / Super Famicom, IIRC - it is possible they had an AC/DC switch, though. If your SF doesn't work with either official or unofficial PSUs, then I would wonder if your console has a fault... that or you have the wrong spec PSU. Definately check the specs on the original PSU carefully before getting a local replacement.

[Calpis]

All you need is a good 220:110V transformer and a power strip.

If the A/V hums, you've got a transmission line problem; make sure everything is connected to the same ground.

[MottZilla]

Like Calpis said, why not get a US style surge/power strip? Plug it into your step-down and you have many outlets at 110v or 100v or whatever.

Also, the prongs on the US adapters are plenty sturdy unless you bought some cheap 3rd party power adapter.

The SFC needs an adapter outputting 10 volts DC, at 850ma. I believe the polarity is center negative tip.

[ZueriHB]

I have one (1) official SFC Power Supply, I just didn't want to use two powerbricks for one console, but it seems not to be really possible.

That 3rd party thing is a general power supply with switchable voltages and ground/phase connection.

For my NTSC-Cube, I bought me a used PAL to use it's power brick (works like a charm) but I still would like replacements for my Super Famicom, AV Famicom and FDS. Also one of my old EU-AC Adaptors for my NES is brocken, it only works under special bendy conditions, but it's kinda hard to get 9V AC here.

For Import Consoles, the Stepdown Converter babu posted would be interessting, now where to get a US power distributor.

[MottZilla]

You can use Direct Current on the NES without a problem. You don't need AC. That's what I've heard atleast.

[retro]

If you're going to use a strip, get a switched one. A cheaper (lower rated) step-down won't thank you if you accidentally turn on too many devices at once! OK, most consoles won't be a problem, but it is better to be safe. Not only that, but it is a waste of electricity as the adapters DO draw current without the system being on (hence why you shouldn't leave chargers plugged in).

[TmEE]

I've got a 1KW autotransformer which I stole from a dead copying machine... I added multiple outlets to it and voila :P you could even run power tools from it and you still have enough power for other stuff :3
For systems with internal power supplies I either find a suitable EU replacement or if its just a transformer, I'll replace it with some 220 to 12V one which I have a ton...

[ZueriHB]

Not tried myself, but I would state that as well. The original PSU is AC because the AC-DC converter is inside the console, not inside the PSU. So feeding it with DC must work, too.

It works, but you'll get a humming noise on your sound output. So I'll use AC in any means possible.

[ave]

Some other question from my side: If I wanted to use a PAL console in the US, how much would a "step-up" transformator set me back? I suppose they're not as cheap as a simple stepdown-converter in Europe as its a more complicated process to make 220V out of 110V - or is it not?

[ZueriHB]

You could theoretically just swap the ends of the plugs and sockets, and it'll work in the other direction. (That's the wonder of AC <-> AC conversion).

If the console is somewhat new and has an external powerbrick, wich are the same on the console side worldwide (N64, Cube, Wii, X360) just try to get an official power-brick from the manufacturer, should set you back about max. US30.-

[Christuserloeser]

For Dreamcast you can simply switch the internal PSU from an European model into your US/JP model.


- I also got a question though: Are Japanese and US power sockets and currancy compatible with each other ? Can you Americans use a Japanese machine with your outlets ?

[Jamtex]

The US and Japanese are basically the same, Japan uses 100V and america 120V but the small difference makes no difference for most things. The plugs are basically the same, although American plugs sometimes have one pin larger so it has polarity and can only be plugged in one way and these may not fit into Japanese plug sockets. American plugs may also having an earthing pin and these will not fit into a Japanese socket.

Japanese plugs can fit into american sockets though, although consoles like the Playstation 3 which has a plug with an earthing lead, you can replace this with a standard earthed IEC (PC) cable.

[drakon]

I plugged a power bar into my converter. Why would I be running all my consoles at once?

[alphagamer]

in some areas in japan you have 50hz and in some 60hz, so our lamp refused to work. other than that, american stuff worked.

[retro]

I plugged a power bar into my converter. Why would I be running all my consoles at once?

What people need to realize is that PSUs draw power REGARDLESS of whether the device is on or even connected. That's why you shouldn't leave mobile phone chargers plugged in - it's wasteful. And some have been known to melt.

[Parris]

What people need to realize is that PSUs draw power REGARDLESS of whether the device is on or even connected. That's why you shouldn't leave mobile phone chargers plugged in - it's wasteful. And some have been known to melt.

Yeah, they use up to 80% of the normal power consumption even when left like that.

[mdmx]

For Dreamcast you can simply switch the internal PSU from an European model into your US/JP model.

I did the same with my Sega Saturn. That should also work fine with PlayStation 1/2. However you should swap the psu's from an identical model.

[Calpis]

BTW, you guys may want to take this into mind: http://www.gson.org/stepdown/

[Taucias]

Very wise advice. I had not even considered a power strip with surge protection.

[Jeilong]

Where do you actually buy a 240V->100V converter?

I only see 220V->110V converters which cannot be used safely for Japanese appliances. I know many of you say it will work, but in many European countries the voltage is no longer 220V. It is officially 230V with a 10% margin. With a 2:1 transformer this gives you 230V * 1,10 / 2 = 126,5V max! This means any appliance rated for 100V could blow out!

Now, it is reasonable to assume Japanese outlet have a comparable margin (anyone have the official source for this in English?). Assuming 10% like in EC standards a Japanese outlet would still only provide max 110V. Compare that to the 126,5V it could be getting from a 220V->110V converter.

What is needed for most European countries is a 2,40:1 transformer that gives us 240V->100V. I have one, but it is rated for 100W max which is fine for most consoles, but is not enough to run a Japanese Xbox. If anyone knows where to get a power converter for 240V->100V able to supply 300W or more?

[randyrandall]

Some other question from my side: If I wanted to use a PAL console in the US, how much would a "step-up" transformator set me back?

More to the point, why the hell would you want a PAL console:noooo:

[smf]

What is needed for most European countries is a 2,40:1 transformer that gives us 240V->100V. I have one,

Have you measured the output? You don't want anything with a fixed ratio, if you're worried about getting exactly 100v then you need an adapter that regulates the power no matter what voltage it gets in.

I'm not sure the japanese consoles get a new power supply when they are released in america. It's possible the other way round as I read the voltage in japan can go as low as 84v.

Some interesting points on wikipedia about mains voltages

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity

The way it describes it, makes me think it's just a pass through.

http://www.minidisco.com/PHC-JPC-100d

[ave]

More to the point, why the hell would you want a PAL console:noooo:
Almost all games I own are either from Japan or the US but there is still my small Xbox/360-collection that I don't really have the ambition to "transfer" into US/JP-versions (if I lived in the US). I guess I'll end up with a modded Xbox, but what about a 220V-monitor/TV? Would that require some high-priced converter or are these Watt-amounts still affordable to convert?

[Oldgamingfart]

I was wondering about all this when I got my Panasonic Q second-hand. The previous owner sold the step-down transformer with it, and this gave 125v from 240v supply unregulated (measured with a multimeter).

Seems OK as the internal fuse inside the Q is rated at 120v. Maybe the internal fuse is often a good indicator of the maximum voltage?
I would still feel more comfortable running these devices at their specified voltage of 100v, so I'll probably get a regulated step-down just to play it safe.

[Calpis]

Modern consoles have very flexible switching power supplies, many of which that operate from <100V->240V, so a few volts is not an issue. In the case of old DC supply consoles, you should just get 220/240V supplies if possible.

[dhau]

I use modern compact universal PSU for my NES, and I noticed that if I run it at 7.5V, it hums a bit, if I run it at 9V, the sound is very clear.