Katana kit arrived with damage

[Parris]

I was speaking to Drussian a week or so ago about his incoming Katana kit. He'd managed to get a really good deal on eBay. Regrettably when the unit arrived it had been very badly packaged by the previous owner. Infuriated with this he immediately decided it wasn't worth proceeding with this particular unit, which I then traded.

When we spoke it was clear that the facade had been damaged and the dipswitch section had been knocked off.

Today the Katana arrived in my mitts and the damage is slightly worse, but thankfully limited to 1 PCB on the facade of the unit.

From what I can gather, the unit must have been dropped heavily onto its left hand side, which forced the frame upwards cracking the edge of the facade and pushing the rotary switch upwards and forcing the dipswitch section to literally dump all the little switches either inside the unit or into the packaging.

When I took the unit to bits I found the last missing piece!

So, the legs of the rotary switch have snapped and I am not 100% sure there is enough left to solder them to recreate the connection to the PCB. Secondly, these little ALPS dipswitch sections are as fragile as all hell. The surround is missing and although I now have the top and 4 switches there is little hope of them remaining held down against the metal contacts.

So, job 2 is finding a supplier of spare dip switches.

These should do the trick I guess: http://www.omroncomponents.eu/home/products/Switches/DIPSwitches/default.asp?ComponentID=54292&SourcePageID=52194#1

Other than that, it looks in good condition internally and should work with a bit of luck.

Is the laser a standard one found in the retail units? Or is it akin the the Nintendo NR reader, set differently?

[Dreamcast]

I think the laser is. Probably why it doesn't have a standard cd-rom tray mechanism.

Would you be able to post any pictures of the parts / damaged area?

[Parris]

I think the laser is. Probably why it doesn't have a standard cd-rom tray mechanism.

Would you be able to post any pictures of the parts / damaged area?

I have completely rebuilt the unit in a bid to keep all the parts in one place - there really is very little space in this house that could be called my own lol

However, here is an image of the damaged area with the facade in place. I'll get better images once I get back to replacing the parts.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5725.jpg

Note the missing dip switches and the exposed copper tracks.

[Dreamcast]

Try this for the dip switch (SPST): http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWDip-1.html. Mouser Electronics is another good source, but they have a lot to sort through. The picture in the first link I sent looks just like the one you need (four positions, SPST).

For the rotary switch, I'd need to see a picture to be able to give you advice on that.

[Johnny]

Parris, i'm keeping my fings crossed. Let's hope you can bring it back to life.

[Parris]

Parris, i'm keeping my fings crossed. Let's hope you can bring it back to life.

Thanks! I'll keep you posted ;-)

[Parris]

I have contacted OMRON and they have a UK supplier for individual parts. So, you can check against the OMRON catalogue and check here:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp)

or 'phone: 08701 200 200

[Parris]

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5747.jpg

Pushing up and it moves...

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5751.jpg

16 position rotary switch. 3 legs on one side, 2 on the other. None on mine!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5753.jpg

What were once 4 dip switches...now a pile of plastic & copper

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5756.jpg

Ready for new parts....

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5757.jpg

[Parris]

Can someone who has a fully functional Katana please post an image of their board like this or tell me whether they can read the text on the ALPS dip switch surround to indicate whether ON is UP on the board or DOWN on the board?

Just looking at the ALPS I can't tell whether it was mounted upside down on the board or not. I think from reading elsewhere and information passed to me that ON is UP, but can someone confirm please with an image?

I'm rummaging through a few online component catalogues and cannot find a 16 position DIL switch that looks like the one on this board.

It's a JAE and I think the product code is 34GT 88, although I don't seem to find anything about it anywhere. It has 3 legs on the left hand side and only 2 on the other and everything I'd found so far appears to have 6 legs.

[babu]

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9039/pinupqf9.jpg


is this what you need?

[Parris]

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9039/pinupqf9.jpg


is this what you need?

Perfect - thanks! Now all I need is to find that damned 16 position DIL switch. I've emailed the manufacturers : http://www.jae.co.uk/profile1.html

But to be honest, they probably no longer manufacture it - we are talking almost 10 years ago!

[Festerfly]

woo hoo.. another parris rebuild thread.. i like these! :D

[DRussian]

woo hoo.. another parris rebuild thread.. i like these! :D

Yep makes it easier for all of us if we ever go through the same, we can just hassle Parris for the answers :thumbsup:

[Parris]

Yep makes it easier for all of us if we ever go through the same, we can just hassle Parris for the answers :thumbsup:

LOL - thinly disguised as ignorant fumblings into the unknown, greatly helped by people far more knowledgeable than me! That's the reality of my "fix dis thang" threads!

[Mark30001]

I wish you the best of luck, Parris.

I've had my share of broken DevBoxes and repairing them with replacement parts online (springs, non-magnetic touch latches, etc). :/

[Parris]

Thanks Mark, I am sure it'll get there in the end. I've located a replacement set of 4 dipswitches. It's the 16 position one that's proving elusive.

[Parris]

I wish you the best of luck, Parris.

I've had my share of broken DevBoxes and repairing them with replacement parts online (springs, non-magnetic touch latches, etc). :/

I assume the non-magnetic touch latch is the one used on the strange push/click system for the GD-rom drive? I've never seen a drive that opened in this fashion before - quite interesting, but also pretty prone to failure I'd have thought!

When I took the unit to bits I also spotted what must be the system reset button - the largest red button I have seen inside any electrical item!

[Mark30001]

I assume the non-magnetic touch latch is the one used on the strange push/click system for the GD-rom drive? I've never seen a drive that opened in this fashion before - quite interesting, but also pretty prone to failure I'd have thought!
Yep. I have no idea how someone could've broken this one though. It was as if the unit was dropped on its front while the drive was still open.


When I took the unit to bits I also spotted what must be the system reset button - the largest red button I have seen inside any electrical item!
I remember when I first received a DevBox in piss poor condition (with no case). I saw that red button and was like, "Ooooh, what does this button do?" while I was running a game. You could imagine what happened next. :banghead:

[Parris]

Yep. I have no idea how someone could've broken this one though. It was as if the unit was dropped on its front while the drive was still open.


I remember when I first received a DevBox in piss poor condition (with no case). I saw that red button and was like, "Ooooh, what does this button do?" while I was running a game. You could imagine what happened next. :banghead:

LOL !:noooo:

[Parris]

Just so people realise just how big and red it really is lol

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5745.jpg

It's tucked in under the gubbins on the left hands side

[babu]

lol. it really is hard to resist pushing that big red shiny button ;)

[Parris]

lol. it really is hard to resist pushing that big red shiny button ;)

That resolves that question then, you are NOT the next President of either Russia or USA ;-)

[babu]

That resolves that question then, you are NOT the next President of either Russia or USA ;-)

lol. but china is still ok? :lol:

[Micjohvan]

If you are having great trouble finding that certain switch that may not be made anymore you could try to find other products that used similer componets from that time and destroy those for parts?

[Dreamcast]

You can probably salvage the dialed switch since the leads look like they're towards the outside. Attached is an example I drew up for you outlining the steps to add new leads to the component. To cut the plastic, a dremel or file would work best, but if you're careful, a hobby knife could probably work too. One of the thinner paperclips would work well as the extension since it would provide both continuity and rigidity.

[Parris]

You can probably salvage the dialed switch since the leads look like they're towards the outside. Attached is an example I drew up for you outlining the steps to add new leads to the component. To cut the plastic, a dremel or file would work best, but if you're careful, a hobby knife could probably work too. One of the thinner paperclips would work well as the extension since it would provide both continuity and rigidity.

Hey, nice graphic & cool idea! I did consider it when I was taking it off the pcb and it is definately on the cards if no other alternative rotary switches turn up! But thanks for the very clear graphic :-)

[APE]

So what does the red button do?

[pitsunami]

Thanks Mark, I am sure it'll get there in the end. I've located a replacement set of 4 dipswitches. It's the 16 position one that's proving elusive.

I think i have some 16 positions in my store,if you dont find one i can check and its not a problem sending you one!:thumbsup:

[Parris]

I think i have some 16 positions in my store,if you dont find one i can check and its not a problem sending you one!:thumbsup:

Wow, I would seriously appreciate it mate! Can you check the legs on the underside. It needs to have 5 pins not the more readily available 6.

Thanks! ;-)

[babu]

I'm not sure excactly what you need but I found some here:
http://www.elfa.se/en/
then in the menu on the left pick:
Electromechanics/Pneumatics -> Switches -> Rotary switches

[Parris]

I'm not sure excactly what you need but I found some here:
http://www.elfa.se/en/
then in the menu on the left pick:
Electromechanics/Pneumatics -> Switches -> Rotary switches

Too many legs! But thanks! :thumbsup:

[jdc98]

You've probably trawled through the switches available at RS, but if not this may be of use.....?

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?N=4294904133&name=SiteStandard&in_dim_search=1&callingPage=/jsp/line/line.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0859882507.1189899671@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccaddlmlhddfdcefeceeldgkidhgk.0&cacheID=ukie&Nr=avl:uk

The ones towards the bottom of the first page look like they might do the job, but I'm clueless with stuff like this....:shrug:

Woo hoo my 100th post...

[Parris]

Having removed the parts and trawled for a few days (instead of studying) to find the particular 16 pole switch in question I decided to hand over the PCB to a friend of mine (James) who is a professional electrical engineer. He gave me a time limit of 3 weeks to find the parts and actually only took a few days!

I shall list the parts when I get the numbers from him. I cannot take credit for this bit of work, he has produced a fine bit of repair work and I've just plonked it (technical term for you there) inside the unit and will test it. The switch positions are slightly different, but I can definately live with that.

I shall post an image if it works - wish me luck! Massive thanks to James!

[DRussian]

Thats really great news mate, I hope we see the kit up and running very soon.

[Parris]

Sadly, I think it's also got another problem as no matter what I try there is no VGA output or audio coming from the L / R. So, it might not be viable.... ho hum! Back to the drawing board.

:DOH:

[Parris]

Okay, when I switch the unit on the green POWER light comes on. Immediately all 3 orange status lights coming on. If I hit the RESET button there is no change. I am hearing the HDD spin up immediately and no clunk, clunk as if it's attempting to read, just a constant spin up noise. If there is data on the HDD I don't think it is making it out lol

Slide SW is to the LEFT, Rotary Switch is to PAL Europe, I have removed however the retail disc and left it to one side as it starts to spin up and NOTHING happens - I am not going to wear out the motor. It keeps spinning.

Dip Sw 1 & 2 are ON and 3 & 4 are OFF - in accordance with VGA output.

[neull]

I'm not experienced with the Katana at all, but it sounds like the hard drive has been formatted, or one of the boot files are corrupt.

-Gamerfreak1727

[Dreamcast]

I had the exact same problem, Parris. It's one of two things: your power supply is bad and / or you need to flash the firmware back onto the unit. Both of which I had to do.

You can tell if the power supply is bad because it won't power the emulation board. There should be no lights on the SCSI terminators indicating that. Also, if you hook it up to a PC through SCSI the emulation board won't appear on the list of attached devices.

You'll hear the hard drive spin up, but other than that, the unit won't work.

[Parris]

Many thanks for the input! This is beginning to sound oh so familiar. I began the PS2 Tool thread with the same initial suspicion that only a small step I was taking incorrectly was keeping me from a fully functioning unit. As time passed, further problems presented themselves until I realised the Tool I had purchased was a basketcase lol

It took several months to get it running. Someone please start the Katana clock!

Okay, if it's the firmware I am going to need some advice on how to deal with that. PSU replacement is straight forward.

As for an HDD that's been formatted... oh no, please don't let it be that :crying:

[Dreamcast]

The hard drive isn't really an indication. Its purpose is to hold the game contents. It doesn't contain any boot information. You should still see the boot screen even if the hard drive is having problems. But, if you want to be 100% sure, run the HD into an SCSI compatible PC and see if it recognizes it. Go (here (http://forums.segakatana.com/viewtopic.php?t=522)) for my guide on using recovery software to recover deleted data on the drive.

First start by getting it hooked up to your PC. Do you have the Adaptec card installed and terminators in place? If not, you'll have to do that before you can reset the firmware. You'll also need a copy of either SDK R9 or SDK R10 because it has the DACheck and DBFlash software you need to flash the firmware and check the hardware for any problems.

If you don't have that ready, you may want to start with the power supply. They're known to cause problems. The airflow inside the unit is terrible. I don't know where the intake on the power supply is supposed to get fresh air from because the GD-ROM unit blocks the path.

[ChiefPFF]

Just found your thread mate :) Might be worth dropping the whole unit in to me and instead of just the board I'll test the VGA properly. I'd hate for you to be spending hours and hours on it and it turns out just to be a video problem!

[babu]

Your sure it's not in dev mode? iirc (was a while since had time to tinker with one) then the screen will be blank on boot. try swithchig it to self-test mode (note that mode is VGA only).

[Parris]

Just found your thread mate :) Might be worth dropping the whole unit in to me and instead of just the board I'll test the VGA properly. I'd hate for you to be spending hours and hours on it and it turns out just to be a video problem!

Welcome to the boards mate ;-)

[Parris]

Your sure it's not in dev mode? iirc (was a while since had time to tinker with one) then the screen will be blank on boot. try swithchig it to self-test mode (note that mode is VGA only).

I should have tried this as I had a quick look through the Katana.com site and did notice the self test.

[Parris]

Nothing - no change, not a peep via VGA or otherwise. New PSU required I think.

[babu]

just did a little reading and it looks like self-test only works in OS-mode.. so it could still be that the system is in dev-mode which could explain the lack of video-output

[Parris]

I have received back the Katana kit (several months after writing this post) and 2 very highly trained, skilled and professional electrical engineers have poured over it and cannot find an 'electrical' reason why this unit does not work. In other words, in their opinion it is most likely a software issue rather than hardware.

They have tested everything from A-Z and even re-worked a couple of parts of the unit to be 100% sure.

Much head scratching later, I have it handed back to me with a 'Good luck' and 'let us know if you ever get it going again'.

I've pretty much given up on DC as the main thing I was after (a very early Tomb Raider dev disc) is now out of reach due to the seller moving to Australia and leaving everything in storage in the UK.

I hate waste though, so might eventually get unwrap it and have another bash at it. Lost enthusiasm for this one I think :-(

[Johnny]

That's too bad. I was hoping you could get it fix.

Anyway, i understand your lost of enthusiasm

[Mark30001]

Did you ever connect it to your PC SCSI card and see if you get this screen when the PC is booting?:



ID *: CPL KATANA DA
ID *: CPL GD-M


Where * is any number 0-7, used once.

[Parris]

Did you ever connect it to your PC SCSI card and see if you get this screen when the PC is booting?:



Where * is any number 0-7, used once.

I bought a suitable card and it turned up broken :rolleyes:

My luck with DC material has been pretty poor. Ever get the impression someone was trying to tell you something? ;-)

[retro]

Oops! I didn't see this before - could probably have helped sourcing parts! Oh well, glad you got that part sorted!

Shame the thing won't boot. I'd offer to take a look, but unfortunately I don't have the time at the moment. Hopefully you will re-spark the interest one day, though ;-)

[Parris]

Oops! I didn't see this before - could probably have helped sourcing parts! Oh well, glad you got that part sorted!

Shame the thing won't boot. I'd offer to take a look, but unfortunately I don't have the time at the moment. Hopefully you will re-spark the interest one day, though ;-)

If the Tomb Raider beta disc turns up again then I suspect I'll regain some interest. Thanks for the offer and perhaps (if you have time) you could assist via PM if I get around to setting it up again?

[Mark30001]

So you've never actually connected this unit to a PC? I say it's still worth it to get a working SCSI card.

[ASSEMbler]

the scsi blows out on these units.

[Parris]

So you've never actually connected this unit to a PC? I say it's still worth it to get a working SCSI card.

No, I've never so much as managed a peep from the unit beyond lights coming on the front panel. That said, my mate (one of the electrical engineers) did have it for several months) so I've really only spent a couple of days with the unit. It's currently wrapped up in the attic and I'll get around to it soon. Will try and obtain another SCSI card.

[Dreamcast]

Assembler, that's the first time I've ever heard that. Do you know if it's known what causes it (faulty parts / hot swapping / too many connected devices)?

[Parris]

This item is being offered in Marketplace as a £50+ trade for anything at all lol - just take it off my hands! :-)

[Parris]

Right, as a final throw at the unit I was offered all the material I would require to get the Katana possibly up and running again. The offer still stands however, if I am unable to get it going, then it's gone!

I found a PC, plonked Win2k on it, installed an Adaptec 2940U SCSI card, set the Katana kit as described elsewhere, and booted the PC. Although the Adaptec SCSI is recognised I still don't get any mention of the Katana itself showing up.

Once the PC has booted I have tried to uninstall the SCSI card, obtain new drivers etc and thus far I have not had any joy.

The Katana is the correct revision for the SDK I have (I checked), the SCSI card appears to be working (well, it is at least found), despite the on-board LED (red) not lighting up (is this right?)

I even tried installing the SDK, revising the APSI firmware and still no joy!

It's not looking good...

Right, I have the SCSI A set to 3 (as suggested), I am using an old CRT monitor attached to the Katana VGA port, I've used the correct SCSI card, I appear to have the correct drivers all installed. Something is either seriously wrong with the Katana or I am missing something here. :-(

[Dreamcast]

The Katana was powered on before the PC, correct?

When Windows loads, do you see the Katana's internal hard drive listed among the other drives?

[Mark30001]

Are any SCSI terminators connected to it? Try booting the PC (if you haven't already) around a minute after you've booted the Dev.Box.

If you don't get this screen:



ID 3: CPL KATANA DA
ID 4: CPL GD-M


...then yeah, looks like you've been performing plastic surgery on an already dead unit.

[Parris]

I have been powering up the Katana, walking away for a while and then booting the PC as have been busily doing other things. No SCSI terminators. I was reliably informed that they were not necessary.

The only thing that comes up as the PC boots is <<CTRL+A to configure SCSI settings>> and the name of the card (Adaptec 2940U)

If I removed the Katana HDD and stuck it into my Win2k PC as a secondary HDD, what would the PC find? Anything of interest or can it not be read?

The next stage is stripping the Katana right down and checking all the connections and IC are ok.

Other than that, it looks increasingly like a paperweight!

[Dreamcast]

Yes, if you received the ribbon cable with the card, then you can plug the HD right into it and view the files (it's a FAT-based file system). If you go that route, be sure to run a file recovery application to see if there's anything on the disk that could be saved.

Do you have a multimeter to check that the power supply is outputting the correct amperage / voltage to the molex connectors? The power supply was the first thing I was going to recommend if you were seeing the DA device on SCSI 3. If you have active SCSI terminators that you can use, they're a good indication that the unit isn't receiving sufficient power (the lights won't illuminate if it isn't).

The airflow inside of the unit is terrible and I'm pretty sure that's why there have been so many issues with the power supplies.

[Parris]

Yes, if you received the ribbon cable with the card, then you can plug the HD right into it and view the files (it's a FAT-based file system). If you go that route, be sure to run a file recovery application to see if there's anything on the disk that could be saved.

Do you have a multimeter to check that the power supply is outputting the correct amperage / voltage to the molex connectors? The power supply was the first thing I was going to recommend if you were seeing the DA device on SCSI 3

PSU tested as outputting correctly. That was the first thing I thought of. Actually, the unit has been poured over by two very highly qualified technicians. Both of whom I have a great deal of respect for. Neither of them could find an 'electrical' reason for the unit not functioning properly.

Any recommendations as to the most suitable recovery app?

One thing I was going to mention is that due to the piss poor Internet connection speed, Win2k has not been updated or any service pack applied to it. Would this perhaps have any baring on the outcome?

I also don't think that device manager, although accepting and stating that the SCSI card is an Adaptec, that it is entirely happy with the drivers I installed.

[Dreamcast]

When you went to install the drivers through Adaptec's driver installation program: link (http://www.adaptec.com/en-US/speed/scsi/windows/w2k_v100b_pci_drvs_exe.htm), did you select the 2940AU as the card you're using? Did the EXE extract files to a folder? You may want to manually navigate to the folder containing the specific driver.

The service packs shouldn't be a problem as developers were most likely using the Katana kits with versions of Windows 2000 that had yet to have them installed, but you can try.

Also, have you installed the ASPI drivers? link (http://www.adaptec.com/en-US/downloads/ms/ms_win_2000?productId=ASPI-4.70&dn=Windows+ASPI+Package).

ASSEMbler posted a thread where he tried to recover data from a few hard drives. Some good file recovery recommendations were made there. I'll see if I can find the thread.

Edit: here's the thread mentioned above: link (http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17106)

[Parris]

When you went to install the drivers through Adaptec's driver installation program: link (http://www.adaptec.com/en-US/speed/scsi/windows/w2k_v100b_pci_drvs_exe.htm), did you select the 2940AU as the card you're using? Did the EXE extract files to a folder? You may want to manually navigate to the folder containing the specific driver.

The service packs shouldn't be a problem as developers were most likely using the Katana kits with versions of Windows 2000 that had yet to have them installed, but you can try.

Also, have you installed the ASPI drivers? link (http://www.adaptec.com/en-US/downloads/ms/ms_win_2000?productId=ASPI-4.70&dn=Windows+ASPI+Package).

ASSEMbler posted a thread where he tried to recover data from a few hard drives. Some good file recovery recommendations were made there. I'll see if I can find the thread.


Yeah, I installed the ASPI drivers (sorry, it's just gone 4:20am here and I think I just called them APSI drivers earlier on... I need to rest!)

They were accepted no problem.

I selected the particular drivers in question, I even tried taking them out of the folder and manually dropping them into the correct drivers folder in System32. The only thing I haven't attempted it sticking the files onto floppy disc and trying it that way, although I cannot see for the life of me what difference that would make.

I initially missed the U folder and tried installing 2930U drivers thinking that was my closest bet....nope! lol

I then went back in again and selected the U folder and appropriate driver. Once I wake up tomorrow I'll check precisely which one!

However, right now I am going to bed. It's way too late for my brain to contemplate this stuff.

Thanks for all your assistance ! ;-)

[oldengineer]

SCSI terminator is the key component, I didn't see it mentioned in your 'list of things', Parris.

[Parris]

SCSI terminator is the key component, I didn't see it mentioned in your 'list of things', Parris.


Ahhhhhh, okay, I don't think I have one here. Back to the drawing board. If you go back 5 posts I did mention I had no SCSI termination and asked whether it was necessary, so that answers that one!

Thanks for confirming at last 1 of my suspicions.

[oldengineer]

Terminate your SCSI chain and all will be well with the world :-)

[Parris]

Terminate your SCSI chain and all will be well with the world :-)

I presume this is what I am looking for:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCSI-II-50-Pin-HP-D-Sub-Male-Passive-Terminator_W0QQitemZ250223207599QQihZ015QQcategory Z31494QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118. l1247QQcmdZViewItem

Just not at the BIN price! ;-)

[oldengineer]

Yep thats the kiddie!

[Dreamcast]

No, you don't need two SCSI terminators for the Katana DA and Katana GD-M devices to show up in the list, acknowledging that the unit is working. Instead of seeing ID numbers assigned to each device (three and four respectively), you should see "LUN" when it's not terminated. You can even view the contents of the hard drive in this state. I'd recommend terminating the unit before attempting to flash firmware, etc, but you don't need the SCSI terminators to determine if the hardware is being acknowledged.

That isn't the SCSI terminator you would use. The manual recommends two active SCSI terminators. The ones you linked to are passive. ;-)

This is the active terminator I recommend (SUN brand): link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120239982623), but again, if you aren't already seeing the two devices at boot, this won't change anything (except your running total. :icon_bigg).

[Parris]

So no further forward then? Pooh! Given the amount of time, effort and the rising cost of getting this thing going it's not looking good. I'll try looking at the HDD however, see whether anything is on it.

[babu]

I know when I recived mine. I had to try with two differesnt SCSI cards before I finally got the computer to detect it.

[Dreamcast]

Babu, do you remember what makes / models those SCSI host adapters were? It'd be good to start compiling a list of working / incompatible SCSI host adapters going.

[Parris]

It's not looking good at this end. I've had to clear everything off my desk as I have other (job related) work to do and the desk had disappeared under a pile of bits. One of my daughter's friends caught a glimpse of the set-up on Friday night and dead pan asked 'My God, are you in the secret service or something...' - yeah, called me Bond....Brooke Bond!

Back again when I have finished off the work in a couple of days time. :thumbsup:

If in the meantime anyone has any suggestions. Oh, and also, I noticed Babu saying 'I had to try a couple of different SCSI cards before I got one to work', does that also include it being 'seen' by the PC?

Mine is definately registering with the PC. It gives me SCSI set-up options on BOOT, plus in device manager it appears to be happy, it knows who / what it is, however the various drivers I have attempted give various indications that they might not be as suitable as I'd have hoped. The specific drivers mentioned to use are not being displayed in device manager under 'drivers'.

I know from previous experience setting up the Raptor EMU card for the Xbox that having 1 missing driver can send you off course for a long time!

Can anyone confirm whether the Adaptec 2940U is supposed to light the red LED when it is inserted, or does that only happen when you strike the correct drivers, or is it to indicate that the HDD is attached internally?

Just like to hear what people found 'in practice' rather than what Adaptec say as sometimes the reality is different when setting up a specific set up. Over to you...

[oldengineer]

Apologies, yes it must be an active terminator!

[Parris]

Apologies, yes it must be an active terminator!

No worries!

[Dreamcast]

The problem shouldn't be drivers. I only have experience with the Adaptec 2940 series, so I'm not sure if the post POST initializtion is a feature only found with Adaptec cards, but because it boots before Windows, you should know whether the card is working with the Katana without having to install any.

I'll check the manual when I get a chance to see what the LED is supposed to mean. :)

[-=FamilyGuy=-]

Just top help: My Adaptec 2940U always have the red LED ON, and works well, plugged into a dvd-drive, I don't have a katana as of now =-(

---> BUT I never managed to make it works on Windows XP, in fact my XP computer wouldn't even boot to windows with this card plugged in. It works fine on Windows 98SE btw.

FG

[Parris]

Just top help: My Adaptec 2940U always have the red LED ON, and works well, plugged into a dvd-drive, I don't have a katana as of now =-(

---> BUT I never managed to make it works on Windows XP, in fact my XP computer wouldn't even boot to windows with this card plugged in. It works fine on Windows 98SE btw.

FG

Thanks for that. I've running Win2k on this PC linked to the Katana. Interesting to hear the LED is always on. Another dead SCSI board? That would make 2 thus far that I've had, however Babu did suggest a similar fate!

[Mark30001]

Everything, SCSI card + Dev.Box, should work 100% on Windows XP (except you can't view the second partition of a split 4GB hard drive).

[Parris]

Everything, SCSI card + Dev.Box, should work 100% on Windows XP (except you can't view the second partition of a split 4GB hard drive).

Would this perhaps be an easier route for me, as frankly XP would seek out the correct driver more readily than Win2k?

[Mark30001]

I guess so. I've never had a problem running it on Windows XP (for nearly 2 years now).

[Parris]

Sheeeeesh! <Looks at Win2k PC he took 2hrs to set up last week in preparation for Katana - and gives it a swift kick!>

I shall return ! :evil:

[Mark30001]

hehe

[-=FamilyGuy=-]

Everything, SCSI card + Dev.Box, should work 100% on Windows XP (except you can't view the second partition of a split 4GB hard drive).
Weird, I never managed to make my "XP PC" boot with this scsi card... I bet the problem is that my mobo's on crystal meth...

Seriously I wish you Parris the best of luck !

FG

[Mark30001]

I bet the problem is that my mobo's on crystal meth...
Are you sure you didn't accidentally try to mod the motherboard, thinking it was your Dreamcast's motherboard? :110:

[-=FamilyGuy=-]

Are you sure you didn't accidentally try to mod the motherboard, thinking it was your Dreamcast's motherboard? :110: Yeah i'm sure, this mobo is like 6 time bigger than a dc mobo ...
But I could try to do the "region changer" mod to it and then run RC1.7 on NullDc to see if it works ... (*checking on my PC mobo for a R512 resistor*)

Seriously I get a bios error from my PC when this pci card is inserted and it don't wanna boot further.

ps: you still owe me a DC mobo :P

FG

[babu]

iirc. the card where both Adaptec, one was 2940U and the other one was 2940UW (not 100% sure can check this on saturday). Pretty sure that it was the second that worked for me after a few re-configurations.

edit: One of them micht have been a 2940AU.. as I said can check Saturday.

[Parris]

iirc. the card where both Adaptec, one was 2940U and the other one was 2940UW (not 100% sure can check this on saturday). Pretty sure that it was the second that worked for me after a few re-configurations.

Any chance you could check precisely which card you obtained, which version of drivers are you using and what configuration did you finally find worked best for you? Oh, and that little red LED, is it meant to be on?

Appreciate it!

[ChiefPFF]

/me continues to troll away ;)

I've got a whole bunch of old SCSI cards kicking around somewhere. Will have a dig and see if I've got anything of suitable mate..

[Parris]

/me continues to troll away ;)

I've got a whole bunch of old SCSI cards kicking around somewhere. Will have a dig and see if I've got anything of suitable mate..

If anyone has a spare Adaptec 2490U or UW I would be forever grateful, even if just to borrow for test purposes. Ta!

[Mark30001]

Unless you don't mind purchasing a 68-pin to 50-pin SCSI 2 adapter (more work), you're gonna want the Adaptec 2940U. The Adaptec 2940UW (Ultra Wide) would be 68-pins. ;)

[babu]

As I said in my edit, it might have been a 2940AU too.. can't remember ^_^

[babu]

did a check and the one that worked for me was a 2940AU.
I also remember I had to try different SCSI IDs

[Parris]

I was chasing a Katana local to me on eBay that just sold as a spares / repair unit at £180.00 - what a joke! Not a chance!

[liquitt]

any news? ;)

[Storm]

Machine now in my hands. I've taken it apart, dumped the HDD as an image for later examination* and examined the repaired front plate. The front plate is not the source of the current problem. Installing XP on a machine to try to rig it up for reflashing. Probably won't be completed until tomorrow evening.

* Seems to have been used by a UK company for a Christmas season 2000 release.

[Storm]

16 position rotary switch. 3 legs on one side, 2 on the other. None on mine!

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q265/Parris1972/Misc%20consoles/IMG_5753.jpg


You wouldn't happend to still have that black cap Parris? If... I mean WHEN I get this working again it would be nice to restore it to it's original front plate design.

/Storm - I mean, I would have saved it in one of the misc drawers, maybe there are more people like me out there. :)

[Parris]

You wouldn't happend to still have that black cap Parris? If... I mean WHEN I get this working again it would be nice to restore it to it's original front plate design.

/Storm - I mean, I would have saved it in one of the misc drawers, maybe there are more people like me out there. :)

Hi, I agree I would generally have kept that little cap, but the repair was actually carried out by a friend of mine in his workshop. It went in, 3 months later it came out.... without cap!

Sorry!

Good luck!

[Storm]

Hi, I agree I would generally have kept that little cap, but the repair was actually carried out by a friend of mine in his workshop. It went in, 3 months later it came out.... without cap!

Ah. Oh well, I'll just have to be on the lookout for spares.


Good luck!

I've got contact with it over the SCSI bus now, so it's looking up. I'll fill you in on the details when I get back home from work.

[Parris]

Ah. Oh well, I'll just have to be on the lookout for spares.



I've got contact with it over the SCSI bus now, so it's looking up. I'll fill you in on the details when I get back home from work.

Excellent! Something tells me you got a bargain, I am please to hear it is working out. My interest in the whole thing just fell apart. Not sure how many SCSI cards I tried this with, but none worked.

[Storm]

Excellent! Something tells me you got a bargain

I more or less consider it a bargain even if it doesn't work. Worst case I have spares for any future Katana acquisitions. And it has provided at least two hours of entertainment so far. :icon_bigg

[Storm]

This is what I've done so far:

I picked the Katana apart to get a basic feel for it and fixed two things on the way:

* A bent connector on the modem board that was dangerously close to shorting out. Might have been shorted at some point, but shouldn't have damaged anything important.

* One of the flat connectors to the GD-ROM was in a skewed and in a position where it shorted several pads.

Then I took a look at the formerly broken front panel that Parris have had fixed. I can find no fault with it. Whoever fixed it did a good job of it.

Firing it up led to the aforementioned three lit orange diodes on the front. Also noticed that the seemed to be very dim compared to all the other diodes in the case.

Then I fitted it with two active terminators(1) and attached it to an old PC fitted with an Adaptec AHA-2940UW with a wide-to-narrow cable. My somewhat far fetched hope was that the terminators would make a difference in detecting the two SCSI devices that Parris never saw. Unfortunately the card did not report any devices at boot, and if the card doesn't see them at boot no amount of fiddling with drivers will make it work.

So now I was going to have to debug the entire SCSI-chain in the Katana. Fortunately I started by tracing all the power connectors, and that very quickly came upon this:

646

Attaching the missing molex to that made the machine much happier. It cycled through several patterns with the front panel diodes (now at full power) and looked and sounded much healthier. It still doesn't output anything when booting. Neither video, nor sound. But it does show up as two SCSI devices, and the test program on the PC managed to read out the versions of the two devices flash. It did not pass any of the tests in the same test program though.

Today I'm going to read up on reflashing and give that a go. Any tips on how it's done gladly accepted.

1. There have been questions about terminators before, so for reference: "Active" terminators are also called "regulated". They often have a light emitting diode on one end. Passive terminators never have this diode.

[Mark30001]

So now I was going to have to debug the entire SCSI-chain in the Katana. Fortunately I started by tracing all the power connectors, and that very quickly came upon this:

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/7224/missingmolexiv1.jpg

Well DUHHH! No wonder it wasn't being recognized, as the Emulation board wasn't receiving any power!


Attaching the missing molex to that made the machine much happier. It cycled through several patterns with the front panel diodes (now at full power) and looked and sounded much healthier. It still doesn't output anything when booting. Neither video, nor sound. But it does show up as two SCSI devices, and the test program on the PC managed to read out the versions of the two devices flash. It did not pass any of the tests in the same test program though.

Yeah, it most likely works now. You'll have to open DACheck and set it to (either CPU or OS mode... the opposite of what it currently is) so that the Dev.Box will actually boot to the screen with audio/video when you power it up.


Today I'm going to read up on reflashing and give that a go. Any tips on how it's done gladly accepted.
It's pretty much self explanatory once you load the Katana SDK disc, or you can run DB-Flash. Just remember to set the SLIDE SW switch on the front to the right, reflash, set to back to the left, then turn off your unit for at least 30 secs (sometimes a little longer since they're so old).

You'll know that it successfully reflashed when you see the Dreamcast logo on your screen.

[Storm]

Yeah, it most likely works now. You'll have to open DACheck and set it to (either CPU or OS mode... the opposite of what it currently is) so that the Dev.Box will actually boot to the screen with audio/video when you power it up.

Yea, I've been trying too, but any attemt to write the DA settings ends up with "Failed to request console reset with debug". So I guess I'll have to reflash it and see if that works and interfaces better with DA-Check. A pity that there doesn't seem to be a tool for dumping the current flash. And no old versions are included.

[Dreamcast]

Be sure to remove any media from the GD-ROM drive before attemting to test the unit with DACHECK / GD test. There is a disc that you're supposed to put in the GD-ROM drive for testing purposes, however if it is anything else (regular game GD-ROM, etc), the test will always fail until you remove it from the drive.

Getting two devices is very good. That means that the power supply is good.

I would reflash before expecting much of anything else at this point. Good luck and remember to be patient. It may not seem like it's doing anything for a while, but after a few minutes it will finish up.

[Storm]

No luck with that. DBFlash will not show available versions and the only available option is "Exit". The log ends with:


Reseting into CPU Mode.
Failed To RESET in CPU Mode
SALSA error report <CON: Command fatal error>

Trying to flash with command line options returns to the prompt right away and then brings up the GUI where the only option is "Exit".

DACheck fares a little better. It will not try to reset the Katana before starting a flash opration, so I was able to flash the DA and GDM. Unfortunately there is no way to flash the BIOS without DBFlash.

The tests still fail though because the first thing it tries to do is the same reset command DBFlash failed with. Trying to change OS<->CPU mode or restoring factory defaults runs in to the same reset problem.

I'm out of ideas for today. Anyone that has seen or heard about something like this before?

[Dreamcast]

Do you have the SDK installed? Try running GDWorkshop and see if it can connect. The SALSA error sounds very familiar. I think I may have encountered this and think it was when I tried entering GDWorkshop, however I forget what I did to remedy it. I think I may have shut everything down and tried again (boot up the Katana, wait for one minute, then boot the PC).

[Mark30001]

Do you have the SDK installed? Try running GDWorkshop and see if it can connect. The SALSA error sounds very familiar. I think I may have encountered this and think it was when I tried entering GDWorkshop, however I forget what I did to remedy it. I think I may have shut everything down and tried again (boot up the Katana, wait for one minute, then boot the PC).

I would get the SALSA error from the Dreamcast Tool program in the Windows CE for Dreamcast 2.1 SDK, when I would try to 'soft reboot' the Dev.Box after loading the dcload-serial homebrew app from the HD (for a different reason), as well as random times.

I would say do what Dreamcast ™ suggested, perhaps 5 or even 100 times. These units will act funny, giving you problems for months, then start working again when connected.

[Storm]

Do you have the SDK installed? Try running GDWorkshop and see if it can connect. The SALSA error sounds very familiar. I think I may have encountered this and think it was when I tried entering GDWorkshop, however I forget what I did to remedy it. I think I may have shut everything down and tried again (boot up the Katana, wait for one minute, then boot the PC).

Tried that once, but I'll look a little more on it tomorrow.

[Storm]

Tried that once, but I'll look a little more on it tomorrow.

Today GDWorkshop is quite happy with me and I successfully created a project as described by Mark30001 in http://assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13438&highlight=dump+katana+bios, and then loaded it by closing the emulator door. GDWorkshop did not complain once.

Unfortunately it did not output anything on the screen. And the flash programs still complain about inability to reset.

[Dreamcast]

Follow the guide I wrote (here (http://forums.segakatana.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=595)) for creating a dummy project. Once it's loaded and the Katana is running in emulation mode, compile one of the samples that come with the SDK and use Codescape Debugger to send the ELF to the Katana. You might have better luck with that, but you should be seeing something with running the game loaded from the hard drive.

Be sure to soft-reset the kit once it's in emulation mode. If you're not seeing anything on the screen (such as the swirl animation or the BIOS), then none of this will work. You need to get output first.

[Storm]

Follow the guide I wrote (here (http://forums.segakatana.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=595)) for creating a dummy project. Once it's loaded and the Katana is running in emulation mode, compile one of the samples that come with the SDK and use Codescape Debugger to send the ELF to the Katana. You might have better luck with that, but you should be seeing something with running the game loaded from the hard drive.

Be sure to soft-reset the kit once it's in emulation mode. If you're not seeing anything on the screen (such as the swirl animation or the BIOS), then none of this will work. You need to get output first.

Right. And Codescape really dosn't like the kit at all. It errors out as soon as it tries to send the binary. I suppose I could unsocket the bios and have a look at manually program it with a burner. But that is a last resort I don't want to do for a while yet.

Besides, logically having a broken BIOS should not prevent me to properly communicating with the DA. But you never know how logical the Sega engineers where...

[Mark30001]

Today GDWorkshop is quite happy with me and I successfully created a project as described by Mark30001 in http://assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13438&highlight=dump+katana+bios, and then loaded it by closing the emulator door. GDWorkshop did not complain once.

Unfortunately it did not output anything on the screen. And the flash programs still complain about inability to reset.

If you have the Windows CE Dreamcast 2.1 SDK, you can try to install that, run Dreamcast Tool, then 'soft' reboot it.

Unrelated:
Oh yeah, I updated that one guide above everywhere else I posted it except in that link. Make sure you use the 1ST_READ.BIN file from the 'unscrambled' folder, not the 'scrambled' folder. ;)

[Dreamcast]

What SCSI card are you using? If the recommended one (2940), did you install the most recent drivers as well as the up-to-date ASPI package (download (http://www.adaptec.com/en-US/support/scsi_soft/ASPI/ASPI-4.70/))?

Side note: It was actually Cross Products who designed the DA/GDM board. :)

[Storm]

If you have the Windows CE Dreamcast 2.1 SDK, you can try to install that, run Dreamcast Tool, then 'soft' reboot it.

I don't unfortunately. We'll see if I have to get hold of it.


Unrelated:
Oh yeah, I updated that one guide above everywhere else I posted it except in that link. Make sure you use the 1ST_READ.BIN file from the 'unscrambled' folder, not the 'scrambled' folder. ;)

I figured. :)

[Storm]

What SCSI card are you using? If the recommended one (2940), did you install the most recent drivers as well as the up-to-date ASPI package (download (http://www.adaptec.com/en-US/support/scsi_soft/ASPI/ASPI-4.70/))?

An Adaptec 2940UW and updated drivers. SCSI problems on the PC side are unlikely.

This investigation is now on hold until the midsummer fertility rites have been concluded. 652

[Storm]

Spent some time going through everything, and I'm now fairly certain the "only" thing broken is the CPU card. Unfortunately the battery had died and decided to take as much as possibly with it in death. The battery acid have turned all solder it has come in contact with into a porous mesh of poorly conducting material.

I've resoldered a few small surface mounted components that no longer had contact with their pads, but either I didn't get them all, or something else is broken, because it still doesn't work. Will take another look later this week and just hope none of the bigger curcuits have fried as a result of all the acid-induced reconfiguration of the curcuit paths.

[Dreamcast]

That doesn't sound good. :-( Hopefully no irreversible damage was done. It looks like the area you'll really want to focus on is component IC304 as a lot of its traces are next to the battery (though, the surface mounts appear to be at the opposite side of the battery, so hopefully the leak the localized in that one area.). I have a reasonably high-resolution scan of the area if you need it for reference.

How familiar are you with the Katana? If not very, hold on a few more days and I'll put together a schematic outlining what connects to what so you can ensure that all of the PCBs/devices are connected properly to eliminate the possibility that it was only partially put back together or put back together incorrectly during any of its many disassemblies. :D.

[Parris]

[quote=Storm]Spent some time going through everything, and I'm now fairly certain the "only" thing broken is the CPU card. Unfortunately the battery had died and decided to take as much as possibly with it in death. The battery acid have turned all solder it has come in contact with into a porous mesh of poorly conducting material.quote]

No idea how my mate(s) missed that!!!!! :banghead:

[Storm]

That doesn't sound good. :-( Hopefully no irreversible damage was done. It looks like the area you'll really want to focus on is component IC304 as a lot of its traces are next to the battery (though, the surface mounts appear to be at the opposite side of the battery, so hopefully the leak the localized in that one area.).

Most of the damage is on the other side of the card acctually. The acid dissolved the solder on the large leg of the battery, went right through and took out the contact points for parts of IC801, R508, R504, R502.


I have a reasonably high-resolution scan of the area if you need it for reference.

How familiar are you with the Katana? If not very, hold on a few more days and I'll put together a schematic outlining what connects to what so you can ensure that all of the PCBs/devices are connected properly to eliminate the possibility that it was only partially put back together or put back together incorrectly during any of its many disassemblies. :D.

Thanks, schematicts might help, but I don't think it will be a problem on that level really. The acid only eats the solder, it doesn't seem to have caused damage to anything else.

I've talked to someone that wanted to sell a Katana about buying it as a refernce. Then I'd already have a working Katana, but if I can turn that into two working Katanas that can't be bad. We'll see how that turns out.

[Storm]

No idea how my mate(s) missed that!!!!! :banghead:

It wasn't _that_ obvious until you removed the CPU card and turned it over.

[ChiefPFF]

[quote=Storm]Spent some time going through everything, and I'm now fairly certain the "only" thing broken is the CPU card. Unfortunately the battery had died and decided to take as much as possibly with it in death. The battery acid have turned all solder it has come in contact with into a porous mesh of poorly conducting material.quote]

No idea how my mate(s) missed that!!!!! :banghead:

neither do I! :redface::shrug:

[Storm]

Got myself another (working) Katana which confirmed my guess after some swapping: The "only" thing broken is the CPU board.

I've done about 50 comparative probes with a multimeter around the problem area though and can't find any more faults after my previous repairs. The only debug port I've identified the JTAG interface for the SH4, and that is not very likely to tell me anything interesting even if the CPU is running at this stage.

Now would be a good time for someone to step in and say "Oh, I have this service manual for Katanas laying around".

I now have working Katana, but I take the non-working one as a personal insult, so I'll keep that as a long term project. On the plus side I can completely strip a Katana in under 2.5 minutes now while still being careful. Rebuilding takes a few more minutes. ;-)

[Dreamcast]

:lol: Are you also picky about putting the screws back where they originally came? (Probably doesn't matter since it's been taken apart by other people as well, but when I know something hasn't been taken apart before, I carefully lay the screws out so I can restore it to 100% originality. Probably a bit much, but the unit has a lot of screws, so it is useful.)

All of the printed manuals for the unit are in PDF form in the SDK, but they don't cover the hardware in detail. If Sega even kept them, they'd be the one to step in. You might have luck contacting Cross Products to see if they have any information since they worked on it as well.

A side request if you still have your units disassembled: on the bottom of the DA / GDM board, there is a sticker with a number (#### / 5000). What are the numbers of your units? I'm hoping this is an indication of how many Katanas were produced.

[alphagamer]

:lol: Are you also picky about putting the screws back where they originally came? (Probably doesn't matter since it's been taken apart by other people as well, but when I know something hasn't been taken apart before, I carefully lay the screws out so I can restore it to 100% originality. Probably a bit much, but the unit has a lot of screws, so it is useful.)
....

hey, we think alike. :thumbsup:

[Storm]

:lol: Are you also picky about putting the screws back where they originally came? (Probably doesn't matter since it's been taken apart by other people as well, but when I know something hasn't been taken apart before, I carefully lay the screws out so I can restore it to 100% originality. Probably a bit much, but the unit has a lot of screws, so it is useful.)

The first time I take a unit apart I always photograph everything, and I always put things back where they should be. Parris Unit has of been taken apart several times and is missing two screws, but my second unit seems to have been completely prestine and still has the yellow tape over the left CPU<->DA cable.


All of the printed manuals for the unit are in PDF form in the SDK, but they don't cover the hardware in detail. If Sega even kept them, they'd be the one to step in. You might have luck contacting Cross Products to see if they have any information since they worked on it as well.

Do they still exist? http://www.crossprod.co.uk/ is stolen.


A side request if you still have your units disassembled: on the bottom of the DA / GDM board, there is a sticker with a number (#### / 5000). What are the numbers of your units? I'm hoping this is an indication of how many Katanas were produced.

I'll try to remember that the next time I dissassemble it.

[Parris]

neither do I! :redface::shrug:

LOL there he is! GET HIM! :rambo:

Can I hand a faulty Naomi motherboard into you mate? It'll be next week. There must be a dry solder joint across the board somewhere as it attempts to boot and sometimes displays Naomi splash, then it cuts out. Sometimes it doesn't even get that far - however the BIOS is fine. I've gone over it, but can't spot it.

Don't want to cut over Storm's thread, so if you have any comments - PM me ;-)

[Parris]

Storm, how did you get on with this Katana then? Any life out of it yet?

[Storm]

Not yet. Since I have one working now it's on my more long term plan to fix the one I got from you. Right now I'm waiting for a proper replacement battery to show up in the post so I can replace the one I rigged in while trying to fix it.

Also got myself a new logic analyzer last week that might make it easier. We'll see. I'll post if there is any development.

[raylyd]

try this website www.farnell.com (http://www.farnell.com) for replacement batterys

[raylyd]

any broken sega katana ask me and can repair them me and my uncle repaied like 10 units with all different faults in 2000 for devlopers like rockstar games no i did try to find betas games but no luck anyway for da chips can be reflashed 5.24 unit i only repair this type no older types i own one dev kit boxed but waiting for www.segakatana.com (http://www.segakatana.com) to make a come back

[mooseblaster]

any broken sega katana ask me and can repair them me and my uncle repaied like 10 units with all different faults in 2000 for devlopers like rockstar games no i did try to find betas games but no luck anyway for da chips can be reflashed 5.24 unit i only repair this type no older types i own one dev kit boxed but waiting for www.segakatana.com (http://www.segakatana.com) to make a come back

No offence, but your claims sound a touch dubious. 10 development machines from Rockstar? That seems a lot for a company not famous for their Dreamcast development. Surely Rockstar would send them back to Sega for repair? Include in this that in 2000 Rockstar stopped making Dreamcast games (their last one coming out in February).

Plus, you are suffering from a case of teen-typingitis. Even if you are 20, that'd make you under-14 in the year 2000 and, in my opinion, not qualified to be working on development machines.

I also know you're the one banned from Afterdawn for trying to acquire a Live Key generator and have a rather large trail of destruction around gaming forums.

Please don't try and scam people around here, else you will end up in a heap of trouble. Please allow yourself to have a pleasant stay. Thank you.

[Alchy]

I'm pretty confident that there's nobody here crazy or stupid enough to send a Katana devkit to someone who has 13 posts and whose standard of written English is so atrocious.

[skavenger216]

I'm pretty confident that there's nobody here crazy or stupid enough to send a Katana devkit to someone who has 13 posts and whose standard of written English is so atrocious.
At least i hope theres nobody here that crazy or stupid.:icon_bigg seriously though, where did this kid think he was gonna get with 13 posts and HORRIBLE written english skills, lol.

[raylyd]

heres the 5 pin swicth http://uk.farnell.com/erg-components/erg16-412-2/switch-hex-red/dp/1203416

i went to a dumb school thanks

[Storm]

heres the 5 pin swicth http://uk.farnell.com/erg-components/erg16-412-2/switch-hex-red/dp/1203416

As an emergency replacement that probably works, but I already have a functional replacement, it just doesn't look exactly like the original.

(No I haven't looked at this for a while. I haven't had time to play games, much less open up hardware the last couple of months.)

[chacal]

Hello

I have the same problem the switch broke during transport :sorrow:

this switch is really compatible???

The sense numbering is not aligned to the pin of the original:dejection:

4178

4179


http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/28986.pdf

[chacal]

it is good it is repaired

I cut the base of the plastic switch pin & weld wire:encouragement:

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9846/img1205p.jpg

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/329/img1208w.jpg

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